It’s been a long time since I finished this model but I never posted photos of its finished version here, so now I present to you Triss Merigold, statue produced by Dark Horse for CD Projekt Red’s The Witcher 3: The Wild Hunt line of collectibles, and also my first take on collectible statue repaints.
Was it worth it? Sure it was!
Triss is a character from the Witcher stories. The statue depicts her in the same way we know from the popular video game.
Original illustration for Triss Merigold. So different than what you get in the box.
As the original product was created as a mass-produced collectible, the quality of painting reflected it. But it was also insufficient for a painter, used to much higher standards. So the natural solution was to journey into the land of statue repaints!
Triss Merigold, repainted collectible statue.
I decided to repaint the statue to bring her closer to the image from the games. The statue I am presenting is the repainted version. If you want to take a peek into the process of repainting, you can check the three articles I posted to our webste. Here is part 1, here is part 2 and here is part 3.
As I expected, this quality of painting attracted interest of collectors, so sadly this model is no longer available. If you would like to get your statue a more solid paintjob, it’s completely possible. Feel free to contact us about it. 🙂
Height of the statue was 24cm. Production date was 2016 and I repainted it in 2020.
I and my friends treated ourselves to some Funko Pop figures for repainting. At the end of the post I will show you all of those that we have done until now, but in this article I wanted to show you how easy and what huge fun repainting Funko Pop figures is! Maybe it’s not clear from the picture and a video would make this easier to imagine, how easy it is!
Here’s my version of Pennywise, and it was fun to paint!
Before repainting Funko Pop Pennywise…
What was the impediment for me? I couldn’t separate some parts, but maybe I was too gentle with some of them. For example I mean the balloon:
I cleaned it with sand paper, but this step is necessary only if you are a modeler. 😉 So if you are a modeler you probably have some sculpting putty, and you fel the need to add some texture ;-)
I did, and I had Milliput:
From this moment I started painting, and I think that in the beginning it’s important to add information that I worked with an airbrush. I know that people who don’t have airbrushes use pastels, but as this is my main tool at work, it was easier for me this way.
Let’s start repainting the Funko Pop!
First I put my base layer to the forehead and to shadows, which gave me some underpainging and shaded wrinkles.
Why didn’t I paint the whole face with this color? To cut time of work – this way I didn’t have to waste time to apply a lot of layers to rebuilt the color of the face, as the original color was acceptable as the base color for me.
These are the paints I had on my table, but I think any white and dark gray would be just as good.
I highlighted and sharpened the cracks on the forehead with a brush and used Contrast Paint Flesh Tearers Red to paint the bloodshot eyes (I misread the name as “Flesh Tears Red” and thought the name obliges :-P)
While repainting I focused on the head because this is the most important part, which makes the biggest difference. This is what I like in Funko Pop figures - their proportions! On the other hand I don’t like empty Funko Pop eyes, but you can’t have everything. I liked the scary look in the It movie, and I painted it in 5 steps.
The eyes
The first, as you saw it, is to add bloodshot red eyes effect on whites and painting some broken red lines.
The second one is to shape the eye.
The third is to add highlights on the top of the lower eyelid. In order to do that with an airbrush I had to mask the eyes.
So we finally arrive at the last part of the description of my repainting Triss Merigold. This time we will take care of her leather corset and base, and the model will basically be done. 🙂 If you want to check the previous parts, here is part 1 and here is part 2.
Repainting the leather corset
So yeah, there have been some questions about the way I painted the corset. Well, I am not sure if it is the proper name for the piece of her clothing, but let’s just go with it. 😉
Basics for my leather painting
The whole painting thing was pretty straightforward, pretty similar to the process described in the section about repainting skin. You can look it up there if you haven’ yet.
See, similar method here – started with underpainting, too.
You wanted to know how I achieved the effect of worn and weathered leather. I’m always glad to share my experience with the community, but answering everybody individually becomes time-consuming and monotoneus. Because curious painters are my favorite kind of people ;), I will try to make your day with this article.
Test board. Nothing fancy. Just colors, numbers and some curly thing. 😉
Testing
I started working on the corset with a test board. I tweaked the color of my paint and checked the effects. Here are the paints I decided to go with:
Just because you don’t want to paint over things you have already done or simply want to keep some surfaces clean, you shouldn’t ignore masking. Once you’re ready, you can start painting!
Here you can see the colors put to use on the model already:
And on the back:
Pose carefully, look fancy. Even when being painted 😉
Applying colors
And here you can see the lightestcolors being applied on the front, but this is where the real fun begins…
Now I started testing methods of achieving this cracked, weathered look of worn leather. On the test board, obviously. Not risking the model yet!
I got the first satisfactory result from Vallejo Crackle Medium, which turned out great. I eagerly repeated the process on the corset and…? Nothing, as far as I could see. I got really suspicious if the Crackle Medium is not a capricious slut. 😉 So I told her she’s an energy vampire and I tossed her into a black hole. Don’t make me apologize for this! 😀
The culprit. There is no love between us!
Problem solved!
The next successful test was made with an effect presented to me by Rejven, my team-mate. It was originally a way to achieve marble effect and uses metal wool. You flatten it and use as a stencil for airbrushing. If you try this method and initially fail, don’t get discouraged. 😀 I only appreciated my wool after a few attempts, and it was the best when it got all glued with paint.
It’s no crazy alien being attacking Triss. This is the metal wool I used 🙂
I applied a mix of varied intensity and color onto light base coat. Usually starting from lighter and going to darker ones. See it here:
Check the weathering on her leather bra part. That was really the effect I was going for!
See the weathering. Shaping up as planned!
Working on different parts of the leather, moving the wool to different parts of the model….
No, it’s not hair on her chest. 😀
Here’s how it looked on the lower parts of the corset:
And the darkest layers bring out the most of the weathering effect, creating the old leather effect:
Finishing touches
Finally I applied a bit of visual separation of the trimming and decorative stitches with my paintbrush:
That’s more or less the finished effect.
So that’s basically the whole process. For me the effect was completely satisfactory!
Repainting the base
This model’s base is boring but I had the impression that the wolf sculpt has some potential and can be interpreted in many ways. I decided to go with metallized rock effect. Thanks to the deep sculpt it didn’t require much more than using my airbrush nearly in parallel with the base and emphasizing the volume a bit. It must have been my favorite silver from Vallejo, which is 77.724 Silver.
I did the light reflex in the eye with Metallic Medium from Vallejo applied with airbrush. Then I covered it with a turquoise mix of inks. It’s important to use transparent paints to tint metallics, as they will not make surfaces look flat, but only saturate them with colors.
The next thing to do was using a paintbrush and black paint to paint cracks and grooves around the eye.
I colored the silver here and there by airbrushing some brown ink, and then I covered everything with clear varnish.
And this is what it looks like now:
The model is not finished on the photo, but the base is! 🙂
Done! My thoughts?
I hope I managed to encourage you to buy some statues and proved that they can really look good if you only put some time into upgrading them. Many of them were created by top sculptors, who are paasionate about capturing personalities of our favorite characters from games, comics or movies. I’ll gladly get myself a few more to enhance their looks.
I appeal to you that you don’t settle for the standard, mediocre, factory paintjobs, because it can only be better than that 😀
Now I am compiling a gallery of pics of the finished model, which I will share with you soon!
Welcome to another instalment of my repainting Triss Merigold series. You can see the first part here, and today I want to quickly describe two things: her skin and her trousers.
Repainting the face
The first thing I did was the skin, for which I used airbrush and some paints:
Here on the corset you can see an example of how I used the colors to build up the highlights and shadows, because the this is basically the same approach:
Underpainting in progress
I used some Vallejo 71.271 German Red Brown with a little Magenta Ink from Liquitex for shadows, and some white to underpaint the places for highlights.
I applied my skin tones with glaze of Vallejo 72.704 Elf Skintone and 72.703 Pale Flesh, which were later covered with a fine mist of thinner mixed with Cadmium Yellow Light Hue from Liquitex.
Her skin is freckled only on a narrow part of her face, so I had to change my tool to a paintbrush and thinned down Brown Ink from Vallejo. After this stage I moved to painting hair for a moment, as I was not sure how the paint on the model would react with my paints and if it wouldn’t peel off from the masking around the hair. Fortunately everything went smooth, the paint kept sticking to the model and I could return to the face.
Some freckles, some work on the eyes. And no, that’s not the final look 😉
I painted her eyebrows with Vallejo 71.293, and slightly modified the color with a bit of 72.704 Elf Skintone.
I applied the shadows around her eyes by airbrushing Vallejo 71.048 Engine Grey and I outlined the eye with a paintbrush. Whites of eyes look good if you add some skintone to off white and only use white as the color for painting light reflections on eyes. I also corrected off white and shadows on her eyelids with a fine glaze, and the blush on her cheeks with Citadel Contrast Flesh Tearers Red.
It’s only when I already had the base color for the whites applied, that I outlined her iris, and I colored the eyes in the very end.
OK, I can consider eyes done. For now. 🙂
I slowly moved down, creating lights and shadows around the nose and mouth. I also added color to her lips, using the same paints I’d used in the earlier stages.
I added some detail to her lips….
Detailing the face, working on her lips.Different angleI think I can leave the lips like this. For now. 😉
… and just cleaned up everything, while adding touch-ups and details. The face was basically done, so let’s move to the trousers.
Repainting the trousers
For painting the trousers I needed to protect the upper body, so Triss dressed up as a ghost and went “BOO!” 😉
BOO! or imaginative masking 😉
The trousers were basically painted with two paints. The base was Vallejo 07.952 German Grey, and the highlight was 71.132 Aged White and 71.270 Off White applied in a zenithal way with my airbrush.
You can see one paint here. And imagine the others. 😉
The next stage was a bit more annoying, as I had to pick the right thickness of my airbrush paints and try to get the feel of the trigger to achieve the same kind of grain of the base color to texture the trousers in my planned way.
The texture is shaping up here.
This also gave me a chance to correct the placement of lights and shadows used to accentuate seams and construction of the trousers. Flexible masking tapes from Tamiya were perfect for this job.
Finally the most tedious part, the lockstitch, which is the decorative stitch on Triss’ trousers. But it was more of an exercise in patience than any secret techniques. Usual brushwork. 🙂
Done (for now)
So yeah, here is what we have been discussing today and in the next part I’ll address the corset and the base. 🙂
Closer to the original artwork, if you ask me. Close enough for me!
You may not believe me but for the last few years I’ve been working mostly with large scale models, so when it came to painting something for myself I could hardly remember how to squeeze all the transitions and details on a 32mm model, hahaha 😀 So instead of fighting I decided to simply change the subject (maybe to one Triss Merigold?).
My problem with collectible statues
I’ve always been envious of the great display cabinets of all the proud collectors. Sometimes I tend to forget why I don’t have one. Purchasing this Triss Merigold model was one of those moments of confusion 😉 but all my reason returned as soon as I unboxed her.
The beautiful design was flooded with paint, as if it was machine-painted. I won’t make a good collector as I cannot afford the quality that could satisfy me… And just to be fair, Prime One models also can fail to impress me. The sculpts are great, composition and scale too, and even casting quality can be totally satisfactory! But if I am to enjoy and appreciate those sculpts, I would rather enjoy them not “colored”.
This is the version from Prime One. Definitely a higher-end statue. Photo taken from Don Antonio Baltazar’s blog.
And no, I don’t mean those solid paintjobs we see on prototypes and master models, but the weaker models from production runs. I can barely understand why somebody who can afford such an expensive, limited model, so rarely decides to get it properly painted. Painted in quality that those beloved characters and great sculpts deserve.
Why Triss?
I’ve been a fan of the Witcher saga for years. And Triss Merigold was a character that felt pretty interesting to me, so when it came to choosing a statue I would like to add to my collection, the choice wasn’t all that difficult. The problem came when I saw the quality…
The box. Looks nice. 🙂
I know that Dark Horse statues are the lower end of the range of collectible statues, with brands like Prime One, Hot Toys or Sideshow placing higher than that, but still..
Triss Merigold that I received
The model I had was the Dark Horse version of Triss Merigold, official licensed statue of the character depicted in the popular games from CD Projekt Red. While the box looks nice and the pose is good, after unpacking the statue you can see that the quality seriously differs from the standards I’ve been used to:
Here’s what I received (photo on the left) compared to what is presented in Dark Horse’s online catalogue (right). Well, at least they’re not trying to pretend that the product looks anything like the box art. 😉
Here you can see some more close-up shots of the statue, and for those unfamiliar, it is not small at all! These details are there, just not painted properly despite the size…
I even recorded a short video to depict it:
Triss Merigold from Dark Horse – quick look at the quality
And if you have time for a slightly longer video, you can see some more details and angles here:
A bit longer video of the Triss statue from Dark Horse
This immediately gave me an idea – why not try repainting the statue, so it would be closer to the quality that I would agree to accept. As I said, I had been working with large scale collectible statues for quite some time already, but rarely had opportunity to do something outside of the production models, so having this chance for a hobby project felt great!
Triss Merigold that I wanted
Here’s the image I chose for my main reference.
This is basically the art you get to see on the box. The printed version is slightly darker, but it seems to be the same image
You can surely see the differences between the box art, the painted model presented on Dark Horse’s website and the model I received, can’t you? 😀
Naturally there was more, so here are two more examples of my main inspirations:
While one comes from the game, the other is from Xenbis. I also took inspiration from pictures found on guild_hunter_of_vengerberg‘s Instagram account.
Potential issues
So when I inspected the model, I thought there were two problems I had to solve:
The model was made of rubbery plastic, the soft kind. Which meant any kind of modeling work would be difficult, or at least not as enjoyable as the miniatures we’re used to. So if you want to do any upgrading or converting to your statues, have it in mind.
The other thing I was a bit worried about was the base, which was rather boring and bland. Of course, it is not the standard of the Prime One version, so we cannot expect too much. But still it was very basic and not very inspired.
The last thing I noticed was that the model couldn’t be disassembled. It was a one-piece thing, so handling is not as convenient as it could be if I were able to remove some parts for the time of painting.
But knowing these things I was ready to start! 🙂
Getting started with repainting Triss!
The thing I disliked the most on the model was the face. You aren’t surprised, are you? 😀 So the face would be the first thing I would like to repaint!
But before the cool and creative, artistic part, the mundane has to be done. So we started with washing the model. 😉
We have to make you clean first, Triss, before we apply some make-up, OK? 🙂
After the model was cleaned and de-greased, I was ready to start painting! 😀
I’ll be posting updates on the repaint here, and what seems to be the main fields for upgrade are: the face, the corset and the trousers. And stitches, a lot of stitches…. 😀
