Dark Art Miniatures bases – Review

Manufacturer

Product

I had decided to get some pre-cast bases for my 40K army. Dark Art Miniatures range included exactly what I’d been looking for – big discounted sets of bases with different diameters. I bought two of them – rocky and lava bases.

What you get for your money

Each set costs 9.80 GBP and contains 26 resin bases: 20 x 25mm bases, 5 x 40mm bases, 1 x 60mm base. You get a whole lot for what you pay!

Photo: Dark Art Miniatures bases - Review
Bases are packed in zip-lock bags
Photo: Dark Art Miniatures bases - Review
Lava 60mm base
Photo: Dark Art Miniatures bases - Review
Lava 40mm bases
Photo: Dark Art Miniatures bases - Review
Lava 25mm bases
Photo: Dark Art Miniatures bases - Review
Rocky 60mm base
Photo: Dark Art Miniatures bases - Review
Rocky 40mm bases
Photo: Dark Art Miniatures bases - Review
Rocky 25mm bases

As you can see, bases have different designs. There are enough flat surfaces on every one of them, so there should be no problems with placing and attaching minis to bases. Also, designs are not overly complicated which should save time required to paint them.

Casting quality

Here’s an example of a good cast.

Photo: Dark Art Miniatures bases - Review

Unfortunately, majority of bases has some casting issues – small air bubbles mainly. You can see it on this photo:

Photo: Dark Art Miniatures bases - Review

Summary

Dark Art Miniatures bases are clearly provided for 40K gamers and they meet almost all gamers’ requirements – proper diameters, different yet simple and well-thought designs, discounted sets.

However, casting quality might discourage some clients from buying these (or returning for more). Personally, I don’t really mind small imperfections, but I’m sure some of customers would disagree with me and demanded better casts (can’t really blame them!).

In my opinion, this is a good product with a good quality to price ratio. I do hope though that Dark Art Miniatures are able to improve casting quality.

Simple bases in 5 steps

We keep being asked if we’re ever going to publish any tutorials for beginners in the miniature painting hobby. Sure, why not!


To get started with these articles, let’s follow these five easy steps to make nice but simple bases for your gaming miniatures.

Let me show you a simple and quick method for making bases.

What do we need to make our simple bases?

  • sand,
  • static grass,
  • white glue,
  • superglue,
  • bases,
  • cork,
  • paints: Bestial Brown, Vomit Brown (Citadel) and Lupin Grey (HMG Paints) or Space Wolves Grey (Citadel)

Photo: How to make simple bases in 5 steps - Tutorial

Step 1

Glue a piece of cork to your base using superglue.

Photo: How to make simple bases in 5 steps - Tutorial

Step 2

Glue some sand to your base using white glue to cover free space on the base.

Photo: How to make simple bases in 5 steps - Tutorial

Step 3

Paint the whole base black.

Photo: How to make simple bases in 5 steps - Tutorial

Step 4

Cork: paint with Bestial Brown and then drybrush with Vomit Brown.
Sand: drybrush with Lupin Grey.

Photo: How to make simple bases in 5 steps - Tutorial

Step 5

Use superglue to glue a mini to your base and white glue to add static grass.

Photo: How to make simple bases in 5 steps - Tutorial

Your base is ready! 🙂

You see, it wasn’t all that difficult.

Now if you would like more tutorials for beginners, just write what you would like to read about. What subjects would be the most interesting for you. We will do our best to follow your suggestions.

Rocky seashore bases by Demon Color

Years ago Demon_Color used to be a member of our team. At that time he described the way he created the seashore base, which he used for his mounted High Elf hero. If you want to see how to create such a base – keep reading…

Step one: Preparations

We need to acquire the following marterials:

  • the base (the most important thing ;))
  • cork (even from a bottle of wine)
  • Poxilina (or some other fast-curing putty)
  • glue (doesn’t need to be the one I used, even white glue will do)
  • static grass (or some other kind of grass used for making dioramas)
  • modelling tools

Photo: Rocky Seashore Base - Tutorial

Step two: The rock

Now we’re taking the cork (which can come in different shapes) and model it with a modelling knife to the shape we want for our rock. We tear the edges a bit, to make the rock look even more like a rock.

Our rock can’t cover the whole base, because we want to sculpt some sea waves on it, too. I suggest to make the rock on 3/4 or 3/5 of the base.

We glue the modelled cork to the base.

Photo: Rocky Seashore Base - Tutorial

Step three: The waves

Now we get down to modelling the sea waves. We cut off a 4-5mm thick block of Poxilina, and mix it until the colors blend with each other. We attach it to the part of the base, where we wanted the waves to be, and model it with a dentist’s spatula/ carver or a modelling knife.

Our moves have to be quick and firm. We need to remember that a wave hitting ricks is something undefined. Use your imagination (but don’t exagerate, because there still has to remain some room for the mini ;)). Poxilina is cured after some 10 minutes so you have to hurry and work quickly. 🙂

Photo: Rocky Seashore Base - Tutorial

Step four: Painting

Now that we have everything modelled (and our hands washed after working with this toxic stuff) we can start painting.

I suggest using the following paints for this purpose:

Water: GW (Midnight Blue) – (Midnight Blue + Ice Blue) – (Ice Blue) – (Ice Blue + White) – White

Rock: GW (Bestial Brown) – (Snakebite Leather) – (Vomit Brown) – (Bleached Bone) – (White)

Use drybrushing of course 🙂 But for the waved I would suggest wetbrushing, and a lot of paint. If you feel like wetbrushing the rock, you are free to do it 🙂 I would even recommend it for better effect.

Photo: Rocky Seashore Base - Tutorial

Step five: Finishing touches

So we’re finishing our work. 😀

Now we only need to attach the mini to the base and to sprinkle some grass over the rock.

And don’t paint these patterns because they’re my trademark 😉

Photo: Rocky Seashore Base - Tutorial

— DEMON COLOR

Artemis – how I painted the miniature

Artemis was the model which won me the Femme Fatale II contest. Painting it was a big challenge for me – because of the scale and several problems I encountered. You can read about my Artemis – how I painted the miniature and what I learned from my problems. Maybe it saves you some trouble?

Introduction

Painting of Artemis was done in the same period when I painted the girl in the eggshell – just one step earlier, but also one step after the
sexy female dwarf from Hasslefree Miniatures. I may be repeating myself, but it all was a lucky coincidence at that time, or maybe I just think it was? Anyway the curtain was removed and I saw a lot of new options.

Photo: Artemis - how I painted the miniature - Tutorial

In addition to this we received some secret knowledge ;-))) acquired during a painting workshop with Jeremie “Bragon” Bonamant by our friend from Poland: Illusionrip. In the same time our website – Chest of Colors – was updated with a tutorial (by Morsi) about painting skin, which made my knowledge (acquired from Mahon and Illusionrip more complete. I learned how to “sculpt” and model shapes with colors, and even how to choose colors suitable for certain effects.

But theory is just theory, and what about practice? The dwarf was easy to improve with glazing, so I wanted to test my abilities even more. And the best model to learn painting skin is a nude model 🙂

Photo: Artemis - how I painted the miniature - Tutorial

My perfect Artermis

Artemis was still a new release, but her potential was already noticed by many painters and in a few days new versions kept popping up. I don’t think anybody will feel surprised or will mind me saying that when I visited CoolMiniOrNot in search of inspiration, I found that my perfect Artemis was already painted. Sometimes you just see a paintjob and already knoiw that it’s the perfect version and nothing better will be done with this miniature, because this is THE right paintjob. This harmony and synthesis of the paintjob and the sculpt – looking as if it was made just for that paintjob.

Of course you should know that I am talking about Fluffy’s (Ali McVey’s) paintjob. And not wanting to create a poor copy of her work, which would be too easy, I treated it as a challenge. The new goal was to find the new image for her, to put some new atmosphere into her. And it was a very difficult thing to do is fighting when you feel you already lost… As if it wasn’t enough that my painting quality was inferior, also the choice of the right mood and image for the miniature…. I hope I at least managed to create the opposite of Fluffy’s version – hers is full of power and strength, it is a real threat for the enemies, and the weapon in Artemis’ hand leaves no doubt. So I created a delicate, gentle version…. I wanted people to think “what this mite is doing here?” after seeing her.

The color scheme also had to be different, so the opposite would be a blonde, and I decided to go into yellows. This also matched the sandy base. And if Fluffy’s work was in warm colors, mine would be colder. And the blue color was added to the palette only when I was looking for a pattern for the shield and I found a painting of a plate decorated with a painting, which I later used as my source of inspiration. I recreated its colors and this decided about the colors of the whole miniature.

Photo: Artemis - how I painted the miniature - Tutorial

Different method

I have to admit it was the first time I wanted to create a general vision of my project before painting. Usually I approach painting pretty spontaneously, and I assume that nothing good was created with thinking alone. So when I have an idea for a part of a miniature – I just start with it, and the rest is created as I go on with painting. This work was an exception. Maybe it was like this because I had to create a totally new idea? When I start painting I usually know what mood I want to achieve and what I want to focus on. Here I was off my usual tracks, so I had to force myself to a different vision, and direct my mind to a new direction, new imagination.

NMM

Having painted the shield I still had no courage to make an attempt of painting the skin, so I started with the helmet. On the female dwarf I tried painting gold NMM without using yellow, and I wanted to change my tried method because my imagination wanted me to take another step forward and try new things. I won’t go into details, because I am to write about Artemis, not the dwarf. The helmet was a continuation of my struggle with the new method. I often read about other people’s methods and after reading I don’t follow their descriptions step-by-step, but am working my own way – only incorporating some ideas into my method. That’s what I did with the gold NMM without using yellow. I still missed the tint of yellow in my transitions, and I felt they are bland and boring.

Photo: Artemis - how I painted the miniature - Tutorial

You may know that Vallejo “Cobra Leather” isn’t as yellow as Citadel Color “Snakebite Leather”. I noticed it and found my own way of achieving the effect: when I paint starting from white to Cobra Leather, I don’t blend the colors, but just apply glazes of Cobra Leather. If it’s too difficult for you, you can try painting the transition with any method of blending but leaving more highlighted space than necessary and then glazing a part of the highlight with Cobra Leather. This way gold is still yellowish and you don’t need any extra color for this. That’s how I painted the helmet and only now I am bold enough to paint a part of a miniature with glazing alone.

Photo: Artemis - How I painted the miniature - Tutorial

Problems with the skin

While painting the skin I noticed that paints were behaving in an odd way.
Overcoming this cost me much effort and stress, and you can still see traces of this fight when you compare the front and the back of the miniature. I started with the front, and I was unable to understand why I keep peeling the previous layers off when applying next layers of paint. 🙁 I was deperate and the effect was like the sediment on the surface of tea which is left for too long. Just as if the brush cracked the surface of previous layers of paint. And it really was what was going on, because I didn’t find out that my usual mix I used for thinning paints does more bad than good this time. I never experienced anything like that before, but I never used paints thinned so much before.

Photo: Artemis - how I painted the miniature - Tutorial

Generally I use a mix of distilled water and floor wax (the mix called “magic wash”) for thinning my paints, and it breaks the surface tension, improves the flow of paints, and makes painting easier. Somewhere halfway during my painting I realized what the problem was and I started using water alone. When you’re painting with glazes you don’t want them to create additional “layers” but to change the color of previous layers. It’s like painting with watercolors, so when you add pure water there’s nothing to crack.

Now it went faster and much neater! I didn’t have any bigger problems with placement of lights and shadows. First I checked their placement by keeping the miniature under a lamp, and then I stubbornly refused to add more contrast. Now I think that it’s this way when somebody doesn’t feel too sure about their abilities in something, that they don’t want to pay too much attention to it. And I am still learning to achieve this strong effect of a model emerging from darkness. It’s another challenge for me, and I am preparing for it.

The Base

But let’s return to Artemis – I think there’s still something I should put in words, something which usually is very controversial and I would like to explain in this article. What I am talking about is the base. I heard many different opinions on this subject. I must confess I didn’t think about it too much because in my imagination it was immediately tied with the whole concept and I couldn’t imagine that Artemis and the base might not create a feeling of integrity. The shape of the column was more important to me than its size, because it just belonged to the subject. Initially I wanted to paint it in a marble pattern, but Mahon told me that the column shouldn’t attract too much attention, as this would distract from the miniature. Probably he was right, so I chose to leave the column almost totally black. I just added a partial pattern and some cracks on the surface, because I couldn’t resist painting such an inspiring block.

Photo: Artemis - how I painted the miniature - Tutorial

Photo: Artemis - how I painted the miniature - Tutorial

Final words

I hope you don’t mind not finding any suggestions as for the order in which I painted the miniature here. Especially in the case of the skin it was simply impossible, because – just as it often happens with the first and unsure steps – my actions were not fully considered and studied, but more chaotic and uncertain…

I wish you prolific painting with no fear of entering unknown regions of this hobby 😉