first dreadnought

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jason
Posts: 130
Joined: 4 Mar 2011, o 11:57
Location: australia

first dreadnought

Post by jason »

hey guys
well I finally finish the renovations on the house and it is on the market :dance:
now I can spend some time on minis :) so with out further ado here is my first attempt at a dread it is a ebay item so please let me know what you think and also we purchaed a new camera (a DSLR) my wife needed it for uni so now I can play with it, but I have to work out how to use it and if anyone can point me in the right direction of some tuts it would be appreciated
thanks jason :)
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more pictures here plus the votes wouldn't hurt ;) https://www.coolminiornot.com/artist/jason
sea.man
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Posts: 4867
Joined: 4 Sep 2008, o 17:58
Location: Munich, Germany

Re: first dreadnought

Post by sea.man »

I think the photo now is a bit blurry, you need to make the photos with a timer and camera tripod.
As for the dread I would add a bit rust and mud or dirt to make it more interesting.
miniatures painted:
2011 - 83, 2012 - 38, 2013 - 45, 2014 - 56, 2015 - 95, 2016 - 106, 2017 - 22
p1per
Posts: 315
Joined: 28 Feb 2012, o 14:15

Re: first dreadnought

Post by p1per »

I would have gone brighter on top to create a bit of a zenithal lightning like you did on that Space Marine squad (I think it was yours wasn't it?). :)

For the camera:

Tripod and timer like sea.man said and also try to put the cam a bit away from the mini and not completely close. Use your objective lens then to zoom in.

If you take pictures in RAW you can adjust brightness/contrast/sharpness way better than with any JPEG so if you didn't already, give it a try.

For camera settings - I'm usually taking pictures with a F-stop 9 or 11 and ISO100. Though if you don't have a tripod use something around ISO800 or even higher depending on how much your cam can handle without getting a "pixelated" image otherwise your exposure time will be way too high to get a sharp freehand picture. Higher ISO-level means a higher light-sensitivity -> smaller exposure time but there's a limit on what a cam can handle without messing up your pictures (you often see the problem with a too high set ISO-level with pictures that were taken in the night where later when looking at them you see colored pixels on the pic).

Exposure time depends on your F-stop setting and also background. Your camera should have a built-in scale which is a suggestion on when the camera thinks that the exposure time will work with the given motive. But don't always trust that built-in scale, if you take pictures with a black background you want to go about -1 on that scale when setting up exposure time.

White-Balance - automatic white balance works fine for me if you want you could take a picture of a piece of white paper with the same light setting and surrounding your miniature will later have and set it as custom WB.

Metering mode - just try some if your camera has it try spot metering for your miniatures. Mine unfortunately doesn't have it so I'm using center-weighted average metering.

Hope this helps you a bit. :)
jason
Posts: 130
Joined: 4 Mar 2011, o 11:57
Location: australia

Re: first dreadnought

Post by jason »

Thanks guys
p1per: thanks for all the camera tips I tried them and here are the pics I am much happier with the results :)
thanks again jason
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Maru
Camera Expert
Camera Expert
Posts: 3631
Joined: 4 Jun 2005, o 01:22

Re: first dreadnought

Post by Maru »

so olimpus 410
you get it with: ZUIKO Digital 14 - 42 mm F3.5 - F5.6 ?? (i assune so as exif pop up 28 -84 )
i would sey set it on 50mm to get nice mini photos but as Olimpus got its own sensor design i got problem with instant calculacion :P - somwer in the midle (usualy ther KIT lences are sharpest ) end not at 4F nor 5.6 - this got quite narow point of focus
like p1per pointed try higher .. dunt rymember thous lences optimal F - need to check - dont work often with olimpus
- edit : checked 42- optimal 8f , 35 - badly betwen 5,6 end 8 but strange field of focus (end awesome chroma aberation - disapear at 11 .. with sharpnes tho orrather with resolution )
25- best at f5.6 (sharp center end modrate blury corners ) moust even et f8 (sharp over all ) 18 mm - 5,6 f
over all good lences (much better then Sony DT 18-70mm 1:3.5-5.6 )

so about dred photo - it is large mini - i would try to cach im sharp at F8 for smaler minis 5.6 (why this dont have usual 7.1 ??? :roll: )

painting - big gun looks boring , no wethering no actual shading just metal + some black it caind of stand s out from the rest of mini

Edit :
Turn off Noise filter option on 100 it just blurs out pictures in annoing way (or set it on "low")
"GOOD RACK CAN MAKE A DONKEY ATTACK LION"
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Corvus
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Joined: 9 May 2005, o 12:13
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Re: first dreadnought

Post by Corvus »

Nice paintjob!

I only have two minor comments:

1) gaps in the weapons should be filled in ideally, but only if this were a competition level piece
2) in my opinion the armour lacks some edge highlighting...
jason
Posts: 130
Joined: 4 Mar 2011, o 11:57
Location: australia

Re: first dreadnought

Post by jason »

thanks guys
maru thanks for all the help setting up the camera and thanks for all the reaserched info :)
more pictures here plus the votes wouldn't hurt ;) https://www.coolminiornot.com/artist/jason
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