I don't know... the paint looks as if it doesn't stick well to the model.... bad primer? greasy surfaces? don't know...
what primer do you use? what paints? do you wash your models before painting?
Flagoon's noobastic W.I.P.
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flagoon
Re: Flagoon's noobastic W.I.P.
As for primer my friend used airbrush and some oil paint. It was very mat and surface was very coarse/rough (you can see this on some photos). But after putting few layers of paint it should be ok... at least this is what I think. I'm using Vallejo Game and Model Color (well shaken).mahon wrote:I don't know... the paint looks as if it doesn't stick well to the model.... bad primer? greasy surfaces? don't know...
what primer do you use? what paints? do you wash your models before painting?
Re: Flagoon's noobastic W.I.P.
OK, so you're painting with acrylics on oil? That explains it all....
Oils ON acrylics are OK, but it doesn't work the other way - oils are greasy, and acrylic paints don't stick well to greasy surfaces.
Oils ON acrylics are OK, but it doesn't work the other way - oils are greasy, and acrylic paints don't stick well to greasy surfaces.
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flagoon
Re: Flagoon's noobastic W.I.P.
I've tried to make some highlight with this model and it looks rather OK for me. I think I've made some mistakes at the beginning and that's why I'm struggling. The surface isn't flat and there are some places where "finger weathering:)" is visible. Anyway photos looks horrible, too big close ups. From bigger distance it looks acceptable. I wonder if I should make another glaze with orange color for better highlights and color transition.
One question. I've used Reaper drying retarder and it looks like use some varnish. Especially on foots. Is this normal effect?
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One question. I've used Reaper drying retarder and it looks like use some varnish. Especially on foots. Is this normal effect?
Click to see full-sized image
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Click to see full-sized imageRe: Flagoon's noobastic W.I.P.
how did you use the retarder? I hope you don't just paint it on the paints? you add a LITTLE bit of it to your paint to slow its drying.
Unfortunately some of the problems (finger weathering - that was so cool!
) will be difficult to fix at this moment...
My opinion is that you rushed assembling this model way too much. you can see many mold lines, many lines where parts are glued together...
Lack of neatness at the very beginnning takes its toll throughout the whole process of painting...
Unfortunately some of the problems (finger weathering - that was so cool!
My opinion is that you rushed assembling this model way too much. you can see many mold lines, many lines where parts are glued together...
Lack of neatness at the very beginnning takes its toll throughout the whole process of painting...
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flagoon
Re: Flagoon's noobastic W.I.P.
I'm not such a noobmahon wrote:how did you use the retarder? I hope you don't just paint it on the paints? you add a LITTLE bit of it to your paint to slow its drying.
I have quite cheap solution. I'll paint them black and then silver. I hope it will looks like paint came off during usual usage of Dread.mahon wrote:Unfortunately some of the problems (finger weathering - that was so cool!) will be difficult to fix at this moment...
Yes, I knowmahon wrote:My opinion is that you rushed assembling this model way too much. you can see many mold lines, many lines where parts are glued together... Lack of neatness at the very beginnning takes its toll throughout the whole process of painting...
I have a question thou. What if I have some holes in the model before where it should be glued (leg area). I didn't glue it and didn't use putty/GS on this, but I painted it before. How should I repair this hole? GS and brush-on primer?
Re: Flagoon's noobastic W.I.P.
flagoon wrote:I'm not such a noobProbably I was wrong in "a LITTLE" department. Proportion was about 1:1 (paint:drying retarder) plus water. I always tries to paint as thin layers as possible.
1:1 is nothing like "a little"
some parts need to be glued and prepared before painting - like when you need to fill gaps and make connections smoother.flagoon wrote:Yes, I knowI cannot get to feet areas, armor below torso, I shouldn't use putty on the top. That was the last model I glued before painting.
I have a question thou. What if I have some holes in the model before where it should be glued (leg area). I didn't glue it and didn't use putty/GS on this, but I painted it before. How should I repair this hole? GS and brush-on primer?
as for the last part, I don't quite get it... how come you have holes AT THIS STAGE?
maybe use a kind of modeling putty to fill the gaps, then use a file or sandpaper to make it all smooth, and then prime, paint. don't know what's unclear here.
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flagoon
Re: Flagoon's noobastic W.I.P.
Then what are the correct proportions? 5:1 (paint:drying retarder)? More? Less?mahon wrote:![]()
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1:1 is nothing like "a little"
Look at leg of the dreadnought. There are holes. It was my mistake not to see it, but even if I had noticed it before, I still would have a dilemma. Should I glue it and use putty right away, but then my painting will be more difficult, or should I paint it first and then think how to glue it without holes. Here, with this dread, it's not impossible to paint it after gluing, but there are model impossible to paint after gluing (Komando Nob with Burna).mahon wrote: as for the last part, I don't quite get it... how come you have holes AT THIS STAGE?
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flagoon
Re: Flagoon's noobastic W.I.P.
Another pictures, this time I've made only highlights (they probably should be thiner and made with brighter color) and belt which is connecting arm with flame thrower (second picture).
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Wraithlord
Re: Flagoon's noobastic W.I.P.
Coming along nicely. I think the skulls/seals need a tad more shading myself but that is a minor thing.

