Page 4 of 5
Posted: 16 Apr 2007, o 10:25
by mahon
"greys are the only paints I need!"

Posted: 25 May 2007, o 21:28
by Phoenix
Posted: 25 May 2007, o 21:41
by Bexley
I have a question- why are the primer-coated parts on many of your models grainy looking? I have to assume that it's on purpose, but why? Does it help you see the contrasts between surfaces? At least, that's what it appears to do. And how do you achieve it?
Posted: 25 May 2007, o 22:08
by Phoenix
My miniatures have grainy look because I use two primers. This whole proces is to bring out details on mini. It helps me sometimes to see hidden details. How to do this ? Prime your mini with black first, wait until paint become dry. Than spray white on black in short series.
Posted: 25 May 2007, o 23:48
by Bexley
Interesting. I've recently started using white primer with a really really thin dark grey wash. It works well, but it takes a while to dry. Your method would probably save a step, since I usually leave the primer to dry overnight anyway. I'll have to give your technique a try. Thanks!
Posted: 26 May 2007, o 08:41
by Demi_morgana
I must say I've been using 2 undercoats for a quite a long time too - works well for me

Posted: 26 May 2007, o 08:48
by CUKIERas
You know what Bro you got natural gift for paintin' all that elven stuff -love those shinin' armors.
Posted: 26 May 2007, o 09:27
by illusionrip
great armour...you'll become the specialist of shining NMM armour
very smooth and light/shadows well apllied
interesting grey:blue:green color on emperor's champion
the face of the elf has only one tonalitie who made it flat
try to use a blue greenish + flesh glaze in some part of the face to break this mono-tonalitie
Posted: 26 May 2007, o 16:48
by Phoenix
Thanks illusionrip for your tip. You can be sure that I'll aply what you wrote on my minis
Below are colors I used.
Paints I used were Vallejo Model Color and GW.
B - Base
H - Highlight
S - Shade
Emperor's Champion
Armor
B: Grey Green
H1: B + Blugrey Pale to almost pure BP
H2: H1 + White to almost pure W
S: H1 + Black (glaze)
Gems
B: Turquoise
H1: B + Andrea Blue
H2: H1 +White
Tabard
B: Dark Sea Grey
H1: B+Deck Tan
H2: H1+White
High Elf Hero
Armor
B: Grey Green
H1: B + Light Grey to almost pure LG
H2: H1 + White to almost pure W
S: H1 + Black (glaze)
Golden parts
B: Snake Bite Leather (GW) + Black
H1: B + White to almost pure W
Face
B: Red Leather
H1: B+Dwarf Flesh (GW)
H2: H1+(mix of Elf flesh [GW] + Space Wolves Grey [GW])
H3: H2 + Space Wolves Grey (GW)
S1: Liche purple in deepest areas (glaze) [GW]
S2: Regal Blue in deepest areas (glaze) [GW]
Materials
B: Stone Grey
H1: B+Deck Tan
H2: H1 + White
Internal part of cloak
B: Liche purple (GW)+Black
H1: B+andrea blue
H2: H1+Azure
External part of cloak
B: Dark Sea Blue+Black Red
H1: B+Dark Blue Grey
I hope it was helpful.
Re: Phoenix WIP
Posted: 29 Aug 2012, o 22:39
by Phoenix
After many years spent in oblivion, consumed by the "collect miniatures without painting" and "do everything else but do not paint miniatures" gods I decided to show up and post two of my wips. Maybe this way I will get more power to paint

. Prepare your stones, tomatoes and other handy things and hit following minis of course leaving some comments
Empire warrior priest
Click to see full-sized image
and Leman Russ tank
Click to see full-sized image
As for the priest I found that I have a small problem with painting hammers, precisely with the zenithal light distibution. Any ideas how light should be distributed on them?