I know that Mike is more than qualified to make a paint line. He has proven himself time and time again to have the know how to do paint right. Vallejo has been around for ages and is still used by a lot of the top painters in both our miniature hobby as well as the hard core historical model painters. RMS was made by who??? I have meet more than a few paint an take people that demo with RMS but own Vallejo???
I have the P3 line and they are a great addition to my already large selection of VGC and VMC. It all boils down to as painters we need to be able to use different lines of paint and play with the ones that we enjoy using. A good artist will only use one medium in which to apply their ideas to a project an Amazing artist will be able to use all mediums to achieve their goal.
P3 paints 'review'
well said, Robert.
I believe both Anne and Mike are more than qualified to make a paint line, and their lines will suit various tastes better. I tried Reaper paints but not P3 paints yet. I think I'd rather base my judgement (until trying by myself) on independent reviews, not somebody as involved as Anne though, because it may be hard to find where review ends and marketing starts. Especially when you read about "their fantastic skintones" and such...
I believe both Anne and Mike are more than qualified to make a paint line, and their lines will suit various tastes better. I tried Reaper paints but not P3 paints yet. I think I'd rather base my judgement (until trying by myself) on independent reviews, not somebody as involved as Anne though, because it may be hard to find where review ends and marketing starts. Especially when you read about "their fantastic skintones" and such...
-- Mahoń
Back in the garage with my bullshit detector
Back in the garage with my bullshit detector
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Angel_of_Menoth
This is in response to Trov's question about the drying/working time. The paint dries much faster than VMC in my experience, but it gives a longer working time than Citadel. It gives me jsut enough time to feather the edges of the paint nicely with only a little bit of water added. With actual flow aid/retarder the paints do have the tendency to get "pulled up" when you try to put on the next layer sometimes. Depends on how much is mixed with the paints. Mike definitely likes wet blending and feathering, and this paint works very well that way.
Tanya loves the RMS paints. I like them when they are fresh (they can get very thick in the bottle sometimes, but water on the palette fixes that, I've found). I also really like the P3 paints. I like the VMC line, but they separate very quickly in the bottle, which means tons of shaking. I don't really like VGC. They don't "feel" the same as the VMC (not supposed to), and I just don't like them. I like the old Citadel colors (got some of the white flip top paints), but I'd rather buy P3, RMS, or VMC before buying new Citadel paints.
I've got some new models that I should have finished soon that are done with P3's. I should have some pics up in a few weeks when i can get a friend to take some good pics for me. (Gotta love it when you know military photographers with fancy toys.)
Tanya loves the RMS paints. I like them when they are fresh (they can get very thick in the bottle sometimes, but water on the palette fixes that, I've found). I also really like the P3 paints. I like the VMC line, but they separate very quickly in the bottle, which means tons of shaking. I don't really like VGC. They don't "feel" the same as the VMC (not supposed to), and I just don't like them. I like the old Citadel colors (got some of the white flip top paints), but I'd rather buy P3, RMS, or VMC before buying new Citadel paints.
I've got some new models that I should have finished soon that are done with P3's. I should have some pics up in a few weeks when i can get a friend to take some good pics for me. (Gotta love it when you know military photographers with fancy toys.)
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HuronBH
I'd like to throw in my 2 cents on P3.
I have used just about every line of minatures paint available at sometime or another. My collection varies greatly as I tend to like certain colors in a variety of different lines. For example, I am big fan of RMC's Tan, Bone, and whites(Linen White being my favorite) and their purples( Burgundy Wine is my favorite here), Tamiya's Yellows and Oranges, Vallejo's Reds, Blues, and Black, and then GW for Green, Brown, Inks, and Metallics. However about 3 weeks ago now I picked up a few boxes of P3 paint to give them a try. AoM does a good job of suming up everything I had read about P3 that made me decide to give them a try. Now three weeks later and 36 bottles of P3 purchased(all 6 boxsets, each containing 6 paints) I have found that I hardly use any of my other paints anymore.
AoM hits the nail on the head when he describes the smoothness and decrease paint time experienced with P3. I am an experience painter, I have been painting since 1989, and while I am no where near as good as Jen Haley or Ali McVey, I do feel that I am a decent painter and have been known to do some commission work. I have found recently that hours have been knocked off of my painting time while using P3. I think this comes from a combination of factors. First it is the smoothness and coverage that P3 provides, which lets me get the job done with less coats while still maintaining a smooth even finish. The second factor I think is control. P3 paints go where you want them too without needing additives to help break the surface tension, this means less time fixing mistakes and more time spent on getting the model done.
If you haven't tried P3 yet, give it a try. Do not be discouraged if you do no get results you like at first. P3 has a bit of a learning curve on how to mix and thin it effectively, but once you figure out the basics I really do not see anything that your can't do, minature painting wise, with the P3 paints.
-jay
PS I'm new, you can thank AoM and LadyEyes for my joining up.
I have used just about every line of minatures paint available at sometime or another. My collection varies greatly as I tend to like certain colors in a variety of different lines. For example, I am big fan of RMC's Tan, Bone, and whites(Linen White being my favorite) and their purples( Burgundy Wine is my favorite here), Tamiya's Yellows and Oranges, Vallejo's Reds, Blues, and Black, and then GW for Green, Brown, Inks, and Metallics. However about 3 weeks ago now I picked up a few boxes of P3 paint to give them a try. AoM does a good job of suming up everything I had read about P3 that made me decide to give them a try. Now three weeks later and 36 bottles of P3 purchased(all 6 boxsets, each containing 6 paints) I have found that I hardly use any of my other paints anymore.
AoM hits the nail on the head when he describes the smoothness and decrease paint time experienced with P3. I am an experience painter, I have been painting since 1989, and while I am no where near as good as Jen Haley or Ali McVey, I do feel that I am a decent painter and have been known to do some commission work. I have found recently that hours have been knocked off of my painting time while using P3. I think this comes from a combination of factors. First it is the smoothness and coverage that P3 provides, which lets me get the job done with less coats while still maintaining a smooth even finish. The second factor I think is control. P3 paints go where you want them too without needing additives to help break the surface tension, this means less time fixing mistakes and more time spent on getting the model done.
If you haven't tried P3 yet, give it a try. Do not be discouraged if you do no get results you like at first. P3 has a bit of a learning curve on how to mix and thin it effectively, but once you figure out the basics I really do not see anything that your can't do, minature painting wise, with the P3 paints.
-jay
PS I'm new, you can thank AoM and LadyEyes for my joining up.
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Demi_morgana
- Chest of Colors
- Posts: 15233
- Joined: 9 Apr 2005, o 02:51
- Location: Eldorado
- Contact:
Ok, and just to clarify something, since AoM spoke up for me, I do not love RMS to the exclusion of all other paints. I also use VMC, Golden Fluid Body Acrylics (mostly for metallics), some Gumbacher watercolors, white gauche, Ph. Martin's inks, and the occasional (when I absolutely must, remind me to slap whoever chose DA Green that I have to use on this Defiler) Citadel.
In the past I've tried VGC, Rackham, Add-a-Color (ICK!!!), a few Polly S colors, Tamiya once or twice, craft paints of numerous brands (used for years and years), and once-upon-a-time I used Testors enamels to paint minis.
I don't really have any firm opinion about the P3s yet. I've used one color because it makes a lovely red highlight when mixed with my top red. I DO have a firm opinion about the bottles. I LOATHE paint pots of any and all variety, this kind in particular.
I've had a few people tell me to just go ahead and use them and get used to them because they're better and I shouldn't use anything else.
Silly men... 
In the past I've tried VGC, Rackham, Add-a-Color (ICK!!!), a few Polly S colors, Tamiya once or twice, craft paints of numerous brands (used for years and years), and once-upon-a-time I used Testors enamels to paint minis.
I don't really have any firm opinion about the P3s yet. I've used one color because it makes a lovely red highlight when mixed with my top red. I DO have a firm opinion about the bottles. I LOATHE paint pots of any and all variety, this kind in particular.
I've had a few people tell me to just go ahead and use them and get used to them because they're better and I shouldn't use anything else.
Silly men... You could always get a bunch of dropper bottles and transfer the P3s into them. Of course, Mike McVey will then probably tell you that you aren't really using P3s anymore. The whole mess where he said that people who use dropper bottles don't know how to mix their paint really pissed alot of people off.