RE: Glazing: Putting Theory into practice. Advice Needed.
Posted: 22 Jan 2009, o 18:59
I apologize for this being my first post but I could not help but lend a few pointers to an aspiring mini painter. I am no stranger to the brush (been painting for 8 years) and I have been a looong time lurker on the boards. I was just too timid to speak up till now.
Okay onto my suggestions:
1:On your first attempt at glazing (the space marine), I noticed quite a few "holes" on the paint and I think you already know how this was caused. One of the hardest thing to learn and practice about glazing is patience. If the glaze was applied to thickly (or if there is too much paint) it will take longer to dry. If you paint over it while it is drying, you will "dig a hole" in the paint that has not dried yet. Yup, I still do that every now and then and it does take longer to correct it than to do it right with patience.
2: Take note on the direction of your brush strokes. Paint tends to pool where you last lifted your brush from the figure. You can use this to your advantage. If you are shading, stroke towards the shade. If highlighting, stroke towards the light. And as others have said, use diminishing areas to highlight or shade with stronger colors. Diluted acrylic paint has a wonderful (some may think its a curse) tendency to be translucent. By greatly thinning your paints you allow the colors underneath to influence the colors above. This may get rid of your banding effect on the second attempt.
3: Make sure you have at least two pots of brush water, one to dilute your paints with and the other to clean your brush with. You may need a third one just for diluting metallic paint (the flakes tend to float in the water and contaminate non-metallic areas). Using distilled water helps greatly. Depending on where you live, the minerals that are in tap water can hamper the flow of paint from your brush to your figure.
4:Dish soap (you only need a drop, literally) is good to break the surface tension of your brush water and help it flow easier. You can continue to use it and others have to good effect. Future floor polish (you can probably find it in the grocery stores labeled as Future by Pledge) is better. A 8:1 ratio of water to Future to dilute your paint with and it will flow and dry better. But there are much better products that are specifically made for this purpose. Liquitex Flow-Aid and Winsor & Newton Acrylic Flow Improver are just two that comes to mind that will greatly help in making glazing easier. These products are readily available at any well-stocked art store. A 4:1 water to flow improver ratio will make a marked difference on how the paint flows from your brush. Just don't lick your brush with flow-improver on it. It taste TERRIBLE! Use an eyedropper or an old brush to add your water/flow aid mixture from your pot to your your pallete.
Anyways, your second attempt at blending is markedly better. I hope that these tips help in making it even better.
Okay onto my suggestions:
1:On your first attempt at glazing (the space marine), I noticed quite a few "holes" on the paint and I think you already know how this was caused. One of the hardest thing to learn and practice about glazing is patience. If the glaze was applied to thickly (or if there is too much paint) it will take longer to dry. If you paint over it while it is drying, you will "dig a hole" in the paint that has not dried yet. Yup, I still do that every now and then and it does take longer to correct it than to do it right with patience.
2: Take note on the direction of your brush strokes. Paint tends to pool where you last lifted your brush from the figure. You can use this to your advantage. If you are shading, stroke towards the shade. If highlighting, stroke towards the light. And as others have said, use diminishing areas to highlight or shade with stronger colors. Diluted acrylic paint has a wonderful (some may think its a curse) tendency to be translucent. By greatly thinning your paints you allow the colors underneath to influence the colors above. This may get rid of your banding effect on the second attempt.
3: Make sure you have at least two pots of brush water, one to dilute your paints with and the other to clean your brush with. You may need a third one just for diluting metallic paint (the flakes tend to float in the water and contaminate non-metallic areas). Using distilled water helps greatly. Depending on where you live, the minerals that are in tap water can hamper the flow of paint from your brush to your figure.
4:Dish soap (you only need a drop, literally) is good to break the surface tension of your brush water and help it flow easier. You can continue to use it and others have to good effect. Future floor polish (you can probably find it in the grocery stores labeled as Future by Pledge) is better. A 8:1 ratio of water to Future to dilute your paint with and it will flow and dry better. But there are much better products that are specifically made for this purpose. Liquitex Flow-Aid and Winsor & Newton Acrylic Flow Improver are just two that comes to mind that will greatly help in making glazing easier. These products are readily available at any well-stocked art store. A 4:1 water to flow improver ratio will make a marked difference on how the paint flows from your brush. Just don't lick your brush with flow-improver on it. It taste TERRIBLE! Use an eyedropper or an old brush to add your water/flow aid mixture from your pot to your your pallete.
Anyways, your second attempt at blending is markedly better. I hope that these tips help in making it even better.