What is the best technique for greenstuff.

How to convert or sculpt a miniature? How to make a decent base or even a full diorama?!
Skrit
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RE: Re: RE: What is the best technique for greenstuff.

Post by Skrit »

Yes please! :lol:

But I'm fond of my Colourshapers so will not stop using them, even if they are wrong! :mrgreen:
MiSiU
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Post by MiSiU »

I use both. Colour shapers for general smoothing and clay shapers for details as they are harder.
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Dargrin
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Post by Dargrin »

Thanks for the tips guys but do I really need a these tools for a rounded area? I mean the area is about 3 - 5 mm round. It just seems a bit over kill.
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Post by mahon »

use small metal burnishing tools - they've got a small metal ball on their end.
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Trovarion
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Post by Trovarion »

for fixing minis or filling holes/gaps you do two things:

first: you throw away greenstuff and get yourself a putty that you can sandpaper (tamiya 2 components quick type, milliput, etc.)
second: you get yourself a clay/colorshaper (my prefered one for this purpose is "Cup Round", firm, size 2 - sometimes supportet by "Angle Chisle" extrafirm, size 0)

apply the putty with any tool you want, smooth it with the color shapers, sandpaper it, done.

EDIT: oh and of course clay and color shaper are basically the same thing.. i am sure people use either of it for either purpose...like with everything that by all means has to be put in a box it just leads to unnecessary confusion and unholy theories...
from soft to firm the "Royal Soveregn Ltd. UK" ones I use are called color shapers, the extra firm ones are labeled clay shaper...but who gives a fart? ^^

EDIT2: and color shapers are never overkill, their lifespann is probably 10 years or more unless you treat them very badly and you will never use much else for filling gaps and the like...
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Post by endrem »

In some situation sandable putty is definitely the better choice, but I often get along very well with GS. Some gaps are just too small and a tiny little amount of GS does the trick, even without big smoothing with color shapers. Sometimes the gap is hard to access at some places to be able to access it properly with sandpaper or file. Other than that, Milliput makes a mess, while GS isn't. :)
I think this is more a question of personal taste. :)
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Post by Nameless »

milliput makes a mess? haven't noticed that. I have standard milliput, it seems more 'dry' than gs, and bit more grainy, but it can be easily smoothed with water. and it gets smooth after such treatment.
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mahon
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Post by mahon »

I usually mix miliput with GS about 1:1 and it works fine for me. you can sand it when dry, and it's easier for me to work with than pure miliput.
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Demi_morgana
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Post by Demi_morgana »

thanks for the tip mahon - have to try it soon... 8)
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Post by mahon »

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