ghorghor bey

[Ana]

A Story of One Ghorgor-Bey

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I've been painting this mini for a few days and I confess I wasn't aware how time-consuming such a big and detailed model can be. So far it's been some 13-15 hours and going....

The barrel:

• Bronzed fleshtone (base)
• Smoke (wash)
• Black ink (I applied it to the recesses betwen the planks)
• Bronzed Fleshtone + White (brushed with the side of a brush to highlight the wood)

I painted the handle of the knife - I had a concept but left the rest unpainted because I hadn't decided about the general color scheme yet.

The chainmail:

• Black ink (applied to the recesses, dries slower than regular paint but is better suited for this kind of details)
• Intermediate Blue (base - every link of the chainmail was defined)
• Ghost Grey + Intermediate Blue (more Ghost Grey - the first highlight)
• White (extreme highlights)
• Smoke (applied to some parts as rust)

The axe's blade (silver NMM)

• Intermediate Blue (base)
• Ghost Grey + Intermediate Blue (first highlight)
• Ghost Grey (second highlight)
• Ghost Grey + White (third highlight)
• Ghots Grey + Smoke (shading)
• White (extreme highlights)

The axe's blade (gold NMM)

• Cobra Leather (base)
• Black ink (applied to the recesses)
• Cobra leather + White (highlighting up to white)

And now he looks like this:

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Plan for today: finish painting the gloves. I will show you how I paint worn out red leather:

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1. Red (base)
2. Red + Cobra Leather (1:1 - first highlight)
3. Cobra Leather (second highlight)

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4. Cobra Leather + White (third, yellowish, highlight)
5. White + Cobra Leather (fourth highlight and outlining - cream color)
6. White (extreme highlights)
7. Black Ink (shading in recesses)


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Here's the final effect anf my palette after painting

Then I started painting the spikes. First I applied the base color: Intermediate Blue, and prepared a wash of Smoke.

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Click to see full-sized image

I applied the wash to find all the imperfections of the miniature and applied dirt at the bottom of the spikes. Pulling the brush downwards - to the bottom of the spikes - I brushed them from all sides. This allowed me to achieve smoother transitions on them.

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When the wash was dry I cleaned the spikes and the surface of the shoulder-pad with my base color (Intermediate Blue) where I didn't want any rust.


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I chose the direction for light - the same I used when painting the blade of the axe, and I highlighted the shouldertpads by adding Ghost Grey to the base color.

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Highlighting covered some streaks of Smoke, so I thinned it down again and brush the spikes with it. I also apply shadows onto the NMM on the spherical surface of the shoulder-pad, adding some Smoke to the base color. That's what my mixed colors looked like on my palette:

Click to see full-sized image

Click to see full-sized image

I mixed some German Uniform, Electric Blue, and Dead Flesh. I applied them as streaks on the spikes, but also thinned the mix a lot and washed on some parts of the shoulderpad - this made the colors of the whole shoulderpad more coherent with the spikes. I applied some more paint over the streaks, but in a selective way and with some Ghost Grey.

After checking them on photos I noticed they still lack final highlights, but I'll add them while adding finishing touches to the miniature

I had to get down to painting the ribbons. Mahon helped me decide on the color scheme.

I decided to apply Olive Green with a slight accent of Red over the handle. Highlighted it up to white.

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The base color was washed with black ink. This defined the shape of the wrapped ribbon better.

I also show the palette I used while highlighting I add Goldbrown to Olive Green, and on the second photo of the axe we can see the base color re-applied. But this was done just like I apply highlights: I left the washed green on the shaded side.

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• First highlight: Olive green + Goldbrown (highlighting the whole ribbon on the light's side)
• Second highlight: Goldbrown + Olive Green (focusing more on the edges on the highlighted side)
• Third highlight: White (picking out the edges. I also add some ink next to the ribbon's edge to bind white with the color underneath.

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I repeat the same with the other side of the axe. Maybe you can see the way I did it even better...

That's what my work was like yesterday, working on some, one of many, Ghorgor-Bey...

To be continued ...

[Skrit]

I followed this one a bit in the Polish section and as it's one of my favourite models, like it alot! I'm thinking about getting one myself too before they are really sold out everywhere with the company shutting down and all... (just the pricetag hurts a bit!)

And is it just me or does this topic just scream Blog!!!

[Ana]

I want to do a tutorial from this subject later.
Coments are welcom :rose:

[Demi_morgana]

now I'm Your true fan Ana! can't wait to see second set of piccies! :WOW:

[endrem]

Very nice to see the progress, I'm eagerly waiting for the next reports

[Ana]

After a week of living with a painful tooth, I returned to work on Ghorgor-Bey. On the first day after the break we had painting workshops, and I managed to finish the knife:

I applied the base colors:

• Olive green VMC 888
• Red VMC 926

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I highlighted green with some Gold Brown VMC 877, and red ? with white. Worn out parts of the belt I painted with Flat Earth VMC. The edge of the belt was highlighted by adding white, and where the torn part meets red I shaded with glazes of Smoke VMC 939. I outlined the edges of the wear with a black line next to another ? painted with white with a small addition of red.

At home I started painting the tankard
I basecoated it with:

• Desert Yellow VMC 977 ? wood
• i Intermediate Blue VMC 903 ? bands
• Cobra Leather VMC 72040 ? beer

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Wooden parts were washed with Smoke VMC 939, and the beer was highlighted with Bronze Fleshtone VGC 36 and kept adding more and more Pale Sand VMC 837. It doesn't have to be too neat, and imagining real beer helps in brushing the surfaces the right way, so that the paint sticks to it like real head on beer we imagined

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I loaded some thinned black ink onto my brush and intensified the shadows under the metal bands.

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When it was already dry, I brushed the wood with the side of my brush loaded with the base color: Desert Yellow VMC 977 to make the texture sharper and neater. But before doing it I unloaded excess of the paint by pulling the bristles along my hand. This way I avoided paint running into carefully shaded recesses. Results can be seen on the photo above.

I cleaned the surface of metal rings with my base color and when the paint on the wood was dry, I used black ink again, but this time I didn't thin it as much as before, and I removed some paint from the brush, because I didn't want to duplicate the previous effect. This time I was painting the shadows cast by the rings and not by the shadows in the recesses.

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I took my favorite paint (Smoke) again and after thinning it a bit I painted damp patches on the wood.
When it was dry I corrected contrasts by outlining stains on the wood with paint (without thinning). While the wood was drying, I started making the head on the beer
I placed highligts where in my opinion a bit more of collected foam would look good. When the wood was dry, I applied some streaks of thinnned down white on it. After adding a few spots of thick white paint it was done.

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With a more subtle version of drybrushing I brushed the dry parts of the wooden tankard. I took Iraqui Sand VMC and with a wet brush I mixed paint on my palette to thin i a bit, as it's really thick.
I cleaned the brush by dragging it in the direction of the bristles, taking care to avoid deforming and damaging the bristles. I kept brushing the wood, focusing on emphasizing the wet look of spilled beer with contrasts, which I achieved by highlighting the edges of the stain.

The frontal part of the tankard is leaning downward, so the metal bands will reflect light in different ways in the front and in the back.
In the front I started by shading the metal by adding a bit of Smoke to the base color (picture on the left), and then highlighted by adding Ghost Grey VGC 46. White was only added for defininge the edges of the band.

Click to see full-sized image
Click to see full-sized image

In the back I allowed myself to paint some more light, so I shaded only the parts which would be covered in deepest shadows, and the rest of the band was highlighted. I started by adding Ghost Grey to the base color (picture on the left), and when I reached pure Ghost Grey I started adding white. In addition to reflected light I also highlighted the edges of the band.
That's what I did to the swinging tankard full of beer. Did I succeed? You can judge and try it yourselves

I also painted the bone armour.

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Starting with Iraqi Sand, and then adding a bit of black I applied shading. For highlights I added white instead.

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Tomorrow I would like to send the next part about face. But now I wil be grateful if you comment on this part of the utorial, maybe you think that something is not clear enough? :rose:

[Skrit]

Great and informative Ana!

Did you say you glazed the red parts on his wrist and belts? Because when I glaze, the transition becomes abit more fluid than what I see here. I always use a bit of varnish in my glazes which has a great effect!

[Ana]

Yes It was glaze, but red is my most difficult colour, and I quickly lose patience That is why I use this color so often recently Maybe red is simpler to paint when you paint on highlighted base colour, and next steps are shading - glaze from red

[Slawek]

I hear from my wife that you talk with her and paint on the same time... So you are able to chat on skype and paint such beuty! Great! I admire you ...
I already voted this work (10)
I hope after all that work on big brutal guy you find some time to paint a flying chick with sword, flowers and pigeon