“Fourteenth of the Hill” – Repainting Triss Merigold, part 3

So we finally arrive at the last part of the description of my repainting Triss Merigold. This time we will take care of her leather corset and base, and the model will basically be done. 🙂
If you want to check the previous parts, here is part 1 and here is part 2.

Repainting the leather corset

So yeah, there have been some questions about the way I painted the corset. Well, I am not sure if it is the proper name for the piece of her clothing, but let’s just go with it. 😉

Basics for my leather painting

The whole painting thing was pretty straightforward, pretty similar to the process described in the section about repainting skin. You can look it up there if you haven’ yet.

See, similar method here – started with underpainting, too.

You wanted to know how I achieved the effect of worn and weathered leather. I’m always glad to share my experience with the community, but answering everybody individually becomes time-consuming and monotoneus. Because curious painters are my favorite kind of people ;), I will try to make your day with this article.

Test board. Nothing fancy. Just colors, numbers and some curly thing. 😉

Testing

I started working on the corset with a test board. I tweaked the color of my paint and checked the effects. Here are the paints I decided to go with:

Just because you don’t want to paint over things you have already done or simply want to keep some surfaces clean, you shouldn’t ignore masking. Once you’re ready, you can start painting!

Here you can see the colors put to use on the model already:

And on the back:

Pose carefully, look fancy. Even when being painted 😉

Applying colors

And here you can see the lightestcolors being applied on the front, but this is where the real fun begins…

Now I started testing methods of achieving this cracked, weathered look of worn leather. On the test board, obviously. Not risking the model yet!

I got the first satisfactory result from Vallejo Crackle Medium, which turned out great. I eagerly repeated the process on the corset and…? Nothing, as far as I could see. I got really suspicious if the Crackle Medium is not a capricious slut. 😉 So I told her she’s an energy vampire and I tossed her into a black hole. Don’t make me apologize for this! 😀

The culprit. There is no love between us!

Problem solved!

The next successful test was made with an effect presented to me by Rejven, my team-mate. It was originally a way to achieve marble effect and uses metal wool. You flatten it and use as a stencil for airbrushing.
If you try this method and initially fail, don’t get discouraged. 😀 I only appreciated my wool after a few attempts, and it was the best when it got all glued with paint.

It’s no crazy alien being attacking Triss. This is the metal wool I used 🙂

I applied a mix of varied intensity and color onto light base coat. Usually starting from lighter and going to darker ones. See it here:

Check the weathering on her leather bra part. That was really the effect I was going for!

See the weathering. Shaping up as planned!

Working on different parts of the leather, moving the wool to different parts of the model….

No, it’s not hair on her chest. 😀

Here’s how it looked on the lower parts of the corset:

And the darkest layers bring out the most of the weathering effect, creating the old leather effect:

Finishing touches

Finally I applied a bit of visual separation of the trimming and decorative stitches with my paintbrush:

That’s more or less the finished effect.

So that’s basically the whole process. For me the effect was completely satisfactory!

Repainting the base

This model’s base is boring but I had the impression that the wolf sculpt has some potential and can be interpreted in many ways. I decided to go with metallized rock effect. Thanks to the deep sculpt it didn’t require much more than using my airbrush nearly in parallel with the base and emphasizing the volume a bit. It must have been my favorite silver from Vallejo, which is 77.724 Silver.

I did the light reflex in the eye with Metallic Medium from Vallejo applied with airbrush. Then I covered it with a turquoise mix of inks. It’s important to use transparent paints to tint metallics, as they will not make surfaces look flat, but only saturate them with colors.

The next thing to do was using a paintbrush and black paint to paint cracks and grooves around the eye.

I colored the silver here and there by airbrushing some brown ink, and then I covered everything with clear varnish.

And this is what it looks like now:

The model is not finished on the photo, but the base is! 🙂

Done! My thoughts?

I hope I managed to encourage you to buy some statues and proved that they can really look good if you only put some time into upgrading them. Many of them were created by top sculptors, who are paasionate about capturing personalities of our favorite characters from games, comics or movies. I’ll gladly get myself a few more to enhance their looks.

I appeal to you that you don’t settle for the standard, mediocre, factory paintjobs, because it can only be better than that 😀

Now I am compiling a gallery of pics of the finished model, which I will share with you soon!

Come to the dark side!

As Star Wars Legion rolls through the tabletop world, I couldn’t pass up a chance to paint a commissions of the (in my opinion) main character of the series… Darth Vader himself.

I had to give some thought towards how to do an all black miniature. Thankfully, with the help of Uncle Google I found some references detailing the composition (and materials used) for Vader suit which consists of glossy plastic, leather and fabric.

Then there’s the lightsaber. How to paint a cylindrical, transparent object which glows almost pure white from the inside so that it looking good on the tabletop from all angles, not just pure white. Went this way… hope you like it! And of course the glow…


Set on a Hoth themed base from The Empire Strikes Back (best of the series) makes the mini pop out more.

Greetings!

Hello everyone! I’m new here, and this is my first post.
It’s great honor and pleasure to show some of my own stuff here, because I used to read this blogspot about 10 years ago, seeking for some of the precious tips and tricks for miniatures painting, as a teenager fascinated in this hobby.

Some time has passed, my skills have developed and my paths crossed with such great painters like Ańa, Mahon, Kacpero and Benathai in Mixed Dimensions Studio, where I had the best opportunity to learn even more. Now, as a part of this excellent Chest of Colors crew I’m going to do my bests to fit it’s standards.

Fjul-Grimnir for Chosen Axes

My first work to show here is not certainly what I’d call “my style”, but it’s the mini I’m really proud of. I usually like grim-dark, gloomy and some more realistic painting (for the glory of dark gods, of course!), I’m also huge True Metallic Metals fan, but I love to try new things and techniques as well.

As Warhammer: Underworlds player I own a lot of beautifully designed individuals from many different Age of Sigmar factions, so when I wanted to practice something new, I decided to choose something different to feel more free from my own routine. This dwarf slayer is really wonderful miniature and gave me great opportunity to play with tanned fleshtones, NMM gold and silver and some bright colours in general.

I’m really satisfied with the effect of this ~12 hours battle that has teached me a lot, and gave me a lot of fun! I also see a lot of things to do better next time 😉

I hope you like it too, you can also find some more of my paintings in my gallery.

Cheers and stay tuned for more!

“Fourteenth of the Hill” – Repainting Triss Merigold, part 2

Welcome to another instalment of my repainting Triss Merigold series. You can see the first part here, and today I want to quickly describe two things: her skin and her trousers.

Repainting the face

The first thing I did was the skin, for which I used airbrush and some paints:

Here on the corset you can see an example of how I used the colors to build up the highlights and shadows, because the this is basically the same approach:

Underpainting in progress

I used some Vallejo 71.271 German Red Brown with a little Magenta Ink from Liquitex for shadows, and some white to underpaint the places for highlights.

I applied my skin tones with glaze of Vallejo 72.704 Elf Skintone and 72.703 Pale Flesh, which were later covered with a fine mist of thinner mixed with Cadmium Yellow Light Hue from Liquitex. 

Her skin is freckled only on a narrow part of her face, so I had to change my tool to a paintbrush and thinned down Brown Ink from Vallejo. After this stage I moved to painting hair for a moment, as I was not sure how the paint on the model would react with my paints and if it wouldn’t peel off from the masking around the hair. Fortunately everything went smooth, the paint kept sticking to the model and I could return to the face.

Some freckles, some work on the eyes. And no, that’s not the final look 😉

I painted her eyebrows with Vallejo 71.293, and slightly modified the color with a bit of 72.704 Elf Skintone.

I applied the shadows around her eyes by airbrushing Vallejo 71.048 Engine Grey and I outlined the eye with a paintbrush. Whites of eyes look good if you add some skintone to off white and only use white as the color for painting light reflections on eyes. I also corrected off white and shadows on her eyelids with a fine glaze, and the blush on her cheeks with Citadel Contrast Flesh Tearers Red.

It’s only when I already had the base color for the whites applied, that I outlined her iris, and I colored the eyes in the very end.

OK, I can consider eyes done. For now. 🙂

I slowly moved down, creating lights and shadows around the nose and mouth. I also added color to her lips, using the same paints I’d used in the earlier stages.

I added some detail to her lips….

Detailing the face, working on her lips.
Different angle
I think I can leave the lips like this. For now. 😉

… and just cleaned up everything, while adding touch-ups and details. The face was basically done, so let’s move to the trousers.

Repainting the trousers

For painting the trousers I needed to protect the upper body, so Triss dressed up as a ghost and went “BOO!” 😉

BOO! or imaginative masking 😉

The trousers were basically painted with two paints. The base was Vallejo 07.952 German Grey, and the highlight was 71.132 Aged White and 71.270 Off White applied in a zenithal way with my airbrush.

You can see one paint here. And imagine the others. 😉

The next stage was a bit more annoying, as I had to pick the right thickness of my airbrush paints and try to get the feel of the trigger to achieve the same kind of grain of the base color to texture the trousers in my planned way.

The texture is shaping up here.

This also gave me a chance to correct the placement of lights and shadows used to accentuate seams and construction of the trousers. Flexible masking tapes from Tamiya were perfect for this job.

Finally the most tedious part, the lockstitch, which is the decorative stitch on Triss’ trousers. But it was more of an exercise in patience than any secret techniques. Usual brushwork. 🙂

Triss Merigold – repainting part 2

Done (for now)

So yeah, here is what we have been discussing today and in the next part I’ll address the corset and the base. 🙂

Closer to the original artwork, if you ask me. Close enough for me!

See you soon 🙂

UPDATE: If you want to read the last part of the series, here is the link to part 3.