Infamy Miniatures: Sherlock Holmes and Henrietta Jekyll review

My first contact with Infamy Miniatures took place at our miniature painting forum, where I saw the model of Henrietta Jekyll. Although the paintjob was impressive (oh, those flasks!), the model didn’t impress me that much. Not that I didn’t like it, not at all. I was just less than impressed.

Imagine how surprised I was when I noticed that Infamy Miniatures decided to send us two of their models for review, so we could see if our opinion remains unchanged after seeing them in person.

Infamy Miniatures is a company, whose flagship product is a range of steampunk models in 32mm scale. The company is actually an one-man-show, but James who runs it managed to get some “big names” to collaborate with him on the project. Thumbs up and respect for managing to achieve it!

Infamy Miniatures

Now that we know about the company, we can take a look at the models we received for review.

Infamy Miniatures – first impression

The miniatures are packed in plain white boxes. Nothing fancy or impressive, especially if you compare them to packaging of some more elaborately decorated products like Smart Max‘s Smog miniatures.

The positive thing is that the packaging does its job perfectly. The models are very safe, despite their fragility.

Infamy Miniatures review (1)

As you can see there are a few layers of foam inside…

Infamy Miniatures review (2)

 … and models, reference cards and bases are separated and protected by those sheets of foam. Not a single part was damaged in shipping, and I say it again – many elements are pretty thin and fine, and because they’re made of resin, they might be fragile. Despite this fact, everything arrived in perfect condition.

Infamy Miniatures: Sherlock Holmes review (3)

Infamy Miniatures: Henrietta Jekyll review (11)

So what do these miniatures look like? How good or how bad are they after a closer inspection? Let us see…

Infamy Miniatures: Sherlock Holmes – review

The first model that immediately caught my attention was Sherlock Holmes. I think everybody is familiar with the character of this famous detective created by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. I must admit I always liked these stories, and have a pretty soft spot for all things Sherlock Holmes. 😉

What we get is Sherlock Holmes with a steampunk twist, and we must say the “twist” is easily visible. Just take a look at this concept  art. Cool, isn’t it? Sherlock has some kind of an engine or mechanism on his back providing power for various tools and mechanical arms attached to it. Some say the model looks a bit like Inspector Gadget, but to me it was closer to Fabius Bile from the Warhammer 40K universe.


 Now compare the concept art to the actual model. Pretty close, isn’t it?

It is not a very common thing that the miniature manages to capture such likeness to the original concept art, and in case of Infamy Miniatures‘ Sherlock Holmes the miniature is very close to the concept. Yeah, the arms used on this picture are not the same as used on the concept art, but you have a choice which arms to use and which to leave unused. But we’ll talk about it later.


 The official paintjob was done by Arsies, and when you see how finely detailed the model is, you will appreciate the quality of this paintjob.

Now take a look at the detail of the original sculpt (not a casting yet). See how many elements were used to build the mechanical engine on his back?


 And here’s a shot of the sculpt of the character. It shows how much care was taken to represent all the subtle details without resorting to exaggerating and oversizing them too much. But how does it all transfer to a resin copy of this sculpt?


Let’s see…

Infamy Miniatures: Sherlock Holmes unboxed

Here’s what you get in your box. The model consists of many parts: the main body, the engine, the hand, and 6 mechanical arms/tools. This adds up to 9 parts. There’s also a round 30mm round “lipped” base and a reference card with the illustration that I already presented and number of the miniature. You can judge the size of all elements by referring to the grid on the cutting map I used for my photos.

Infamy Miniatures: Sherlock Holmes review (4)

Assembling the model will require some work but you should enjoy it if you like working with multi-part models. The positive thing is that all parts fit together very well. Also you won’t need all 6 arms, as the model is prepared for 4 attachments to the backpack, which allows to customize the model a bit.

You should see it on the close-up pictures that the quality of this casting was very good. The resin used for the model was of excellent quality. I could spot no air bubbles, no casting problems here.

Sherlock Holmes review – a closer look

Take a look at the photos below to see how each part looks from different angles:

Infamy Miniatures: Sherlock Holmes review (5)

Infamy Miniatures: Sherlock Holmes review (6)

Infamy Miniatures: Sherlock Holmes review (7)

To summarize my impressions, let me say that I liked the concept, liked the sculpt and its faithfulness to the original concept, and loved the way it was turned into a miniature. I don’t mind assembling my models, so its multipart character was not a problem for me.

I will also show and write more about the quality below.

Infamy Miniatures: Henrietta Jekyll – review

Henrietta Jekyll was not a “canonical” character to me, but it was this miniature which was my first contact  with Infamy Miniatures, so I was really curious if it looks better or worse than I expected from the internet photos.

The photo I mentioned earlier presented the official paintjob by Derwish. You can see that the attention focus is on the bottles. They look so nice, that they steal the show from the rest of the miniature.

And here’s a photo of an unpainted sculpt by Automaton (Seb Archer). I never pretended I was not a fan of his works, and having seen some miniatures he sculpted for Guild of Harmony, I only expected high quality sculpting. Of course I was not disappointed with the sculpt.

Just like it was with Sherlock, the sculpt is very true to the concept art. I always appreciate seeing that the sculptor managed to capture the personality and character that the concept art presented. Unfortunately many companies tend to release miniatures which are not even remotely resembling respective original concepts. This is not the case with Infamy Miniatures!

Infamy Miniatures: Henrietta Jekyll unboxed

This time we receive a simpler model, which doesn’t make her worse than Sherlock. What I mean by “simpler” is that the model doesn’t require as much work as Sherlock, being only a two-part miniature. The two parts are: the main body and an arm holding the weapon, which is some kind of a flame thrower. There is also a card and a round 30mm “lipped” base (which somehow didn’t make it to the photo).

Infamy Miniatures: Sherlock Holmes review (12)

Again I used the cutting mat to allow you to see the size of this model. The photo doesn’t say too much about the quality and details of the copy I received, so let’s take a closer look from several angles.

Henrietta Jekyll review – a closer look

After seeing the model in person I had to admit that the photos, despite a very good official paintjob, don’t really do the model justice. The model is very good and characterful. Somehow she brings Marie Skłodowska-Curie to my mind. Of course I don’t think the real scientist ever ran around in London with bottles of explosives strapped to her belt and a flamer in her hand, and I can’t even say that she was the inspiration for this model. I only mention the impression I had about the character.

Infamy Miniatures: Henrietta Jekyll review (13)

Infamy Miniatures: Henrietta Jekyll review (14)

Infamy Miniatures: Henrietta Jekyll review (15)

Infamy Miniatures: Henrietta Jekyll review (16)

I hope the photos show that the model, while very detailed and finely sculpted, still leaves enough room for the painter’s imagination and skill. The model will surely be enjoyable to paint.

I must also say that the resin used here was of very high quality again, no air bubbles. I even thought the models may be the most flawless models I have ever held in my hands!


But wait, can the picture be all that perfect?
Can it be that these miniatures were the closest to perfection of all the miniatures I had a chance to see?

The answer is… YES and NO.

Let me try to explain:

Take a look at the Sherlock Holmes miniature. The photos here are strong close-ups, so you can see the quality of the sculpt and of the casting I received. They also show the face of Sherlock from several angles, the buttons of his coat (which are pretty subtle, so some attention will be needed to paint them well) and other details.

When you compare the detailing of this resin copy to the original sculpt you will see how well resin captured and copied all the details. The only softness of details occurs only when the original sculpt was also soft in these places.

Infamy Miniatures: Sherlock Holmes review (8)

Infamy Miniatures: Sherlock Holmes review (9)

I could not find a single flaw of this casting. No bubbles, no flash, no mold lines. Of course there are some “sticks” marking the places where resin was injected into the mold, but these are technologically obvious and couldn’t be considered flaws by me.

Infamy Miniatures: Sherlock Holmes review (10)

The model was very good. Probably the cleanest casting I can recall, and I think I’ve seen quite a few already. Just a few days ago I saw another resin model which is at least comparable or maybe better, but it is in a completely different scale and will be described in a separate review.

Was Henrietta cast as well as Sherlock?
Unfortunately not…

Take a look at this photo:

Infamy Miniatures: Henrietta Jekyll review (17)

I marked two ends of a mold line. Not that it is very bad, it would be very simple to remove – several straight moves with sand paper or a soft file and you’re done with cleaning it, but there was nothing like that on Sherlock.

Moving on to another angle we also see a problem on the other side:

Infamy Miniatures: Henrietta Jekyll review (18)

See what I mean? Another slight roughness.

Of course I would be absolutely happy to receive all my miniatures in this quality and requiring only so much preparation before painting. I am accustomed to miniatures which require some preparations: cleaning flash and mold lines with a scalpel, then moving on to sanding and finally polishing with steel wool or polishing sticks. Here you need to do so much more that the miniatures don’t deserve to be called anything but very good.

But wanting to remain objective and honest, I tried to find ANY flaws. And I hope this makes the review even more valuable.

Infamy Miniatures: Henrietta Jekyll review (19)

And here’s the same thing you already saw, but this time from another angle. It also reveals a mold line on her leg, too.

Infamy Miniatures: Henrietta Jekyll review (20)

So no, I cannot call the copy of Henrietta Jekyll flawless, but it still is one of the best miniatures, which can be considered perfect after a few moves of a file or scalpel.

Infamy Miniatures provided some of the best quality castings I had pleasure of seeing!

Infamy Miniatures review – final verdict

Now you may wonder what is my final opinion about these models. Well, I must say I was very impressed – both with the concepts, good representation of concepts in 3d miniatures, great detailing, and nearly perfect casting quality.

Now there’s one thing that may discourage you a bit: money.
These models are not cheap. Sherlock Holmes costs 13.99 GBP, and Henrietta Jekyll is priced only 1 GBP lower (ie. at 12.99 GBP). These are not the cheap plastic models some of us may be used to working with. These are high quality models that will be enjoyable for many painters and will surely look nice in display cabinets. Of course they may be used for gaming, but then you need to bear in mind that you’re paying for quality toys.

Now that you know the positive and negative things about the models from Infamy Miniatures I had a chance to review, I would like to recommend these models to you. Manufacturers of good and interesting miniatures need support, so let’s help them!

Thanks to James of Infamy Miniatures for providing the models for this review and good luck with your future releases!

— Mahoń

How to make candles – tutorial

It’s been some time since Urbik described how to make candles for your miniatures. Still, after all this time the tutorial may still be interesting for many hobbyists, so we’re making it available again. Urbik wrote:


I thought that since I already registered here and have been browsing the forum for a few days, it would be nice to write something too. And because I have a lot of time, I decided to describe my own way of creating candles in scale of Warhammer Fantasy Battles miniatures, like the ones I presented during Polish edition of Golden Demon.

Note: If anybody had a similar idea and published it before me in the internet/paper/radio/poster/leaflet/TV/another medium, I would like to explain that this idea is my own and hasn’t been stolen from anyone. In case of any similarities, I am not responsible. 😉

OK, so you want to know how to make candles? Let’s get started!

What we need

  • wire or a piece of “something” of 1-1.5 mm diameter
  • thin string or thread (much thinner than the wire above)powyżej)
  • PVA glue
  • greenstuff

Step 1

At the very beginning we have to decide about the size of our candles. After a few attempts I found that their standard height would range from 3 to 6 mm.

We divide the wire (or “something” else) into pieces of our chosen length. These bits will become the main (wax) parts of our candles. I used a chopped spear of an Empire soldier, something that I have a lot of, so I could use it with no regrets. 😉

Step 2

We make a small greenstuff ball (proportional to the size of our candle) and press it to a chosen part of our model. We put a piece of wire into it and wait for the greenstuff to harden. Whe wire is to become our candle.

It looks more or less like this:


Step 3

Now it’s time for the most important part in the whole process of candle creation. Sounded very serious, didn’t it? 😉

Because burning is the most important job of a candle, we should create a few drips of wax – just like we tend to see on real candles.

We’re going to use PVA glue for this purpose. We thin the glue down a bit with water (don’t overdo it!) so it has convenient thickness for us to work with. Then we use a toothpick (or some other little thing) to apply some glue onto the candle body, creating “spots” in several places of our choice. When the first application of glue is dry, we can add some more in the same places. Usually it’s enough, but if we want even more prominent drippings, we can add even more layers.


Step 4

Now it’s time for proverbial icing on the cake. What would a candle be without a wick?

We make a wick from thread (which can be hardened with some superglue) or thin string. Then we glue it to the top of our candle with strong glue.


Step 5

Painting! As we should know from our experience, candles can have very diverse colors. And I don’t really mean cheap candles in bad taste that you can buy at fairs, but different colors that can be spotted in various lighting conditions.

I tend to use two ways of painting my candles:

Method 1:

  • basecoat of Rotting Flesh (maybe slightly darkened with a little black or Catachan Green)
  • highlight up to white

Method 2:

  • basecoat of Bleached Bone (also darkened – for example with light brown)
  • highlight up to white or to Bleached Bone (if the basecoat was darker than that)

This time I decided to use the first method, which is the best imitation of wax in my opinion. I recommend using naturally smooth transition of colors, without rapid changes or radical contrasts. The results may look like this:



That’s it. As you can see the technique I use to create candles for my miniatures is not that complex and one doesn’t need to prepare more greenstuff and then remove excess with scalpels. How precise your approach is going to be depends only on you.

Such candles look great on religious-themed models – like flagellants, war priests or inquisitors.

how-to-make-candles-tutorial-5 how-to-make-candles-tutorial-6

It’s a pretty original method of making the model look more unique and interesting, and many Games Workshop models don’t include candles at all. Well, there are some exceptions, but they only prove the general rule 😉

I hope you find this tutorial useful and now you know how to make candles for your miniatures.

— Urbik

Miniature of the month: October 2012

Welcome back! Yeah I know… you really missed our game. 🙂 Please excuse me for making you wait so long for the next edition of Miniature of the month! This time we have 24 miniatures for you to choose from.

Last month there was the biggest painting competition in Poland – Hussar 2012. Unfortunately this year I couldn’t come, but still I can try my skills with some great painters like Ana, Bohun, Flameon, Ctan and many, many others. If you would like to make them a challenge, then try to paint a miniature, post it on Chest of Colors forum and try to win. 🙂

And remember you can also take part in the next month’s edition of Miniature of the Month!

Authors say

Now here is what the authors said about their works:

I would like to introduce myself and present to You some of my works to be judged and commented.
Firstly my recent work in almost se-nmm, almost because there is no horizon line. Wanted to make him more gold-like but in the process no yellows were added and so it came more patina-bronze.
Mad Puppet miniature, 55mm
— madfly-art

In preparation for Halloween, here are some horror I painted last week. 02282, Ghoul Warrior sculpted by Bob Ridolfi and 02941, Ghouls and Ghast sculpted by Ben Siens, all by Reaper Miniatures. I’ve cut the Ghoul Warrior arm to meet the needs of the diorama I’m working on now for Reaper Halloween Contest.
I used Vallejo cork brown as base color for the skin. Then, I applied a flat brown wash and blended some highlights with green gray and dark flesh which in fact are not dark at all. I finished with purple bruises and different tones of flat red mixed with charcoal color for the blood.
— Metalchaos

Miniatures of the month October

Who can enter the competition

Everyone! Yes, that’s true. Have you ever considered competing and trying your skills with other great painters? This is a great opportunity. 🙂
It’s all very simple – just log into our forum and post pictures of your miniatures. They will automatically take part in next month voting.

Rules and voting

Everybody can vote for 3 miniatures of their choice. There will be one Miniature of the Month (the winner) and up to two honourable mentions. The number of honourable mentions will be reduced if two miniatures tie for the title of the Miniature of the Month, so the maximum number of awarded entries is 3.

OK, so now you should be ready to vote:


The poll is open until the end of November. The results will be posted after the poll is closed and the winner will receive a honorary badge to display in his profile on our miniature painting forum and will take part in voting “Miniature of the Year 2012”. In case of a tie, the badge will be awarded to the winners. Up to two models will also receive honorary mentions.

We encourage you to comment on this month’s entries, explain your votes or even discuss votes of other users – we’ll be happy to read what you have to say. So don’t be shy and share your opinion with us. Thanks a lot!


UPDATE: This month’s winner is Ana with her Nokjagerin, and honorable mentions go to CTan and Marta. Congratulations!

How to paint NMM gold – Recipes

We keep receiving questions how some of your favorite works were created or about some aspects of their creation – like NMM gold recipes. Recently painted Black Templars terminators from Irkuck and Benathai caused another wave of such questions.

To respond to popular interest, we asked both authors of these miniatures how to paint NMM gold the way they do. They answered and here are the recipes they shared:

Benathai’s NMM gold recipe

  • Basecoat: P3 Bloodtracked Brown (or Citadel Bestial Brown)
  • Highlight #1: basecoat mixed 1:1 with Sunburst Yellow
  • Highlight #2: Sunburst Yellow + a little white
  • Shadow: Devlan Mud or Black Wash
  • Glaze: Yellow Glaze (or P3 Yellow Ink)
  • Finishing touches: final white highlights

  How to paint NMM gold - recipes (2)

Irkuck’s NMM gold recipe

  • Chaos Black
  • Snakebite Leather
  • Sunburst Yellow
  • Skull White
  • Wash of Badab Black
  • Wash of Gryphonne Sepia

How to paint NMM gold - recipes (1)

Final effects

Now here is the finished unit – some miniatures were painted by Benathai and some by Irkuck. Do you think they blend together well enough to make a coherent unit?

How to paint NMM gold - recipes

If you would like to know more, feel free to let us know or ask your questions in the comments section.

How to paint ruins bases – tutorial

In this tutorial explaining how to paint ruins bases from Micro Art Studio, I’m going to show you two of many possible colour schemes which you can use while painting ruins – first one will be with standard grey colours, like if you’re in some sort of castle (and later on I’ll call grey bases “castle bases”), and the second one will be “desert ruins” – some kind of old temple/church, once great, now forgotten. So, without any more introductions, here we go:

How to paint ruin bases: The ground

Step 1:

First thing you need to do, is basecoat your bases. I did it with Vallejo 950 Black, just because I ran out of both Citadel paint and spray:

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (1)

Step 2:

So, now what to do next… Which part, which element now? Well, first thing you want to ask yourself, is: How much time do I want to spend on 1 base? Is it 1 minute? Maybe 5? Can I spend 20 minutes on 1 base? And, most importantly, will it be worth that time?

Well, let’s assume that we want to do it fast, without going back to destroyed elements, because we must do 200 of them. In that case I suggest you to make the deepest parts of the base – in this particular case, the earth. I used Citadel brown colour Mournfang Brown, old Bestial Brown, which I applied normally on specific parts. Remember – you don’t have to be precise at this part, so don’t waste your time trying not to paint stones:

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (2)

Step 3:

After that step was done, I decided that I’ll create some shadows on the earth, to make deeper parts darker. I could just drybrush those parts where the earth should be brown instead of painting it, leaving black shadows everywhere – but I want dark brown shadows, not black.

That’s why I decided to use Citadel Agrax Earthshade shade, which I applied on brown parts. The same effect I could accuire using darker brown as a prime earth colour, and then drybrushing those parts with Mournfang Brown – pick your favourite method:

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (2)

Step 4:

Next thing to do is light up the earth a bit – I mixed 1:1 Mournfang Bown and Citadel Ushabti Bone, and then applied it on brown parts with light drybrush:

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (4)

Step 5:

To finish up the earth, I lightly drybrushed every brown part with pure Ushabti Bone – remember, make sure your brush is really dry, otherwise you’ll ruin the whole effect! It’s better to mix or even waste more paint that do everything from the beginning:

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (5)

Step 6:

As the earth is done, we can go on. Next and last, in this particular case, thing we have to do, is paint stones. At this point I separated bases – 3 for grey bases, 2 for desert ones. From now on, we’ll split the tutorial into two parts – one about each kind of bases.

How to paint grey ruins bases

Step 7a:

While painting the earth you didn’t have to care about precision – now you have to. Especially near the painted brown earth. So I applied very gently 1 layer of Citadel Eshin Grey paint. I think that it’s the second darkest grey colour they offer, comparable to Mechanicus Standard Grey, which you can also use here. That’s how it looks (notice that we don’t care about the rims of base at all right now):

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (7)

Step 8a:

After painting it with your favourite grey colour, I mixed 3 parts of Eshin Grey with 2 parts of Ceramite White, and then quite heavily drybrushed the whole base (but be careful, don’t destroy your beautiful earth!):

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (8)

Step 9a:

Next step is to light it more – you can mix 2 parts of Eshin Grey with 3 parts of Ceramite White, or simply use colour named Administratium Grey. It will look pretty much the same.

Then again, drybrush the whole base – but now lightly. Pick your way with that – I decided that I’ll make sides of the base lighter. You can choose differently:

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (8)

Step 10a:

The only thing to do now is to make one, final highlight – take your white paint and apply it very gently using drybrush on parts which were before treated with Administratium Grey. At this point, after you finish with white, you’ll also have to paint rim of the base with black colour – Abaddon Black from Citadel or any other black paint (like my 950 Vallejo black). And after doing so, your bases are done.

Here’s the final effect:

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (9)

Let’s move on to the desert bases.

How to paint desert ruins bases

Step 7b:

Let’s move on from the common part about painting ground, as parts from basecoating up to fully painted earth are the same in both cases. Here again, while painting the earth you didn’t have to care about precision – now you have to. I used Citadel Tallarn Sand as a prime colour for those stones:

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (10)

Step 8b:

Then I came up with an idea – why do I have to make it look like just plain stones with highlights, can’t I add anything catchy, something that will make my base special?

Well, if it’s old ruined temple why not some frescoes? You can make them as you want, with many colours or very few, big or small, untouched or very destroyed, simple patterns, complicated or just some letters. I made a simple pattern on the side of base – line of purple(Citadel Xereus Purple) and turquoise (Citadel Sotek Green) triangles accompanied with blacklining:

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (11)

Step 9b:

As for something that is destroyed (in my case), frescoes also have to in bad shape. That’s why I “scratched” some frescoes paint from the edges of the base, and made some cracks inside the painting. After that, I used Citadel Seraphim Sephia shade to make shades all over the base (I skipped the earlier painted earth of course):

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (12)

Step 10b:

Ok, frescoes are destroyed, bases have shading. Let’s move on a little bit, and start lighting things up. Before you’ll grab a brush, think for a while – how I want my base to be highlighted? Centre of it, just edges or maybe some other pattern?

I’ve decided to highlight edges and a little bit of centre of my base.

I used mix of 2:3 Ushabti Bone and Tallarn Sand, and then drybrushed the whole base lightly. Remember, you should also drybrush frescoes, but do it gently, otherwise you’ll ruin the whole effect by covering them fully:

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (13)

Step 11b:

Then I reversed proportions, and made a mix of 3:2 Ushabti Bone and Tallarn Sand. After that, I heavily drubrushed the area of stones and very lightly frescoes:

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (14)

Step 12b:

And at the end, I drybrushed whole base lightly with Citadel Ushabti Bone and painted the rims of the bases with black. That’s the end of making desert bases, here’s final effect:

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (15)

Finished ruin bases

And so, here it is, the final effect of my work on 1 picture. A perfect bases for your Dwarf, Empire, Tomb King or any other army you want, which you can easily make by yourself in a matter of minutes!

How to paint ruins bases - tutorial (16)

List of used paints

  • Abbadon Black, Vallejo 950 – Basecoat, frescoes blacklining
  • Mournfang Brown – color of the earth
  • Agrax Earthshade – Shade used on earth
  • Ushabti Bone – Highlights on desert bases and earth
  • Eshin Grey – Prime colour for castle bases
  • Administratium Grey – highlights on castle bases
  • Ceramite White – Highlights on desert and castle bases
  • Tallarn Sand – Prime colour of desert bases
  • Seraphim Sephia – Shade used on desert bases
  • Sotek Green – frescoes triangles
  • Xereus Purple – frescoes triangles

– Lemartes