K's litte beginer gallery

[Maru]

huh no comments ?? strange ...
so i have to be the evil 1 ?? that will throw a rock ?
...
..
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OK

that's Sorcha is the 54 mm 1 if i rymember ??

hym as for this scale thar is suprisingly little details ..
so all you need to do with painting - my advices would be "work with temperature"
as it is Red dresed leady on snow
i would go for cold shadows end only a little warm highlight - ATM whole mini is Tomato - wich is warm color

thats from me at fast what would improve over all feel - as this is all about "cold"

[k_dash]

Maru that mini is 32mm I didn't know that you could get 54mm warmachine minis.
Thanks for the precious advice, I will put it into practice. I can see after looking at some works that there is a looong way for me to go
I see that I should not be afraid to use for example violet or blue to shade the mini up until now I was using a colour that was similar to the base colour. Even if I used such it was just a hint. I will do my best on my next mini.

Kind Regards
K'

[Maru]

the over all rule is to applay cold in shadows end warm in highlights but for "special effect" like cold winter theme you mey move whole minature to cold colors end just pick some parts like nose end lips , some other parts like gloves end make them in warm colors

so for this red you mey add a blue to red end get cold puple - but adicion of yellow will instantly push whole mini to warm
as for cold highlights - adicion of somthing like ice blue will definitly create a cold redish color but it wil actualy become pinkis - not pink just "soaped" color - a thing you mey often c in "Snow Queen" them

Maru that mini is 32mm I didn't know that you could get 54mm warmachine minis.

huh . so they made exact copy of 54 mm mini end made it 32 .. (all casters got such special kit ... awfuly expensive )

I see that I should not be afraid to use for example violet or blue to shade the mini up until now I was using a colour that was similar to the base colour. Even if I used such it was just a hint. I will do my best on my next mini.

alvays play with colors (best on wet pallete ) that create realy intresting wnd unique hues end transicions of colors, shading red with green - yes of corse - thats complementary colors red + green = black (in theory ) ^-^ end so on

[k_dash]

Hi,
This is my newest job. I tired to apply all the advice I have been given by Maru, hope you'll like it, as always constructive criticism is welcomed.
For now nice viewing.


Cheers
K'

[Maru]

lol
"going down Ms's Tyler ?? "
first thing first -
hilarious composicion will be hilarious no mater who paints it (i will laught iven if it would be made by Ana or Bohun - well i would iven more if they posed ther minis in a way like this )

so composicion as intresting it is it is also a "face plant" to be
if you would actualy add ther somthing on wich she could bend over - (lake , pot, treasure chest ) it could be ok - but now it is "jumping in to the abbys " or "my rack is so hevy so im gona fall"

ok end on this topic

base :
i like the idea
but as with all things it should looks real end it is actualy not about materials you used but how they interact - atm you got ther tree , covered with leafs , end a green parts end blue flowers
- end they could be together - but at this point they are separated - nothing keeps this as a 1 composicion - you need to "meld" things - so they would look like in real enviroment ( Do we got some Tutorials on basing ??? .. im sure i so some ... - will add when i rymember wich 1 it whas )
sum up -
idea good,
materials - actualy good
execusion - lacking (to improve )

Minature :
What i like
- yellow patern on scarf - nice shaded
metalicks - gold 1 on staff (or whatever it is )

what is aceptable :
- blue it is vivid end actualy looks smouth , end iven shaded to brighter one
- flaws - a bright blue parts - dont shade blue with sepia colors = effect alvays dirty color

The bad :
Purple :
- it is third strong color after blue end green in whole composicion end is clouse to blue so they meld visualy instade separate things - bad visual effect
Skin :
somthing bad hapend with paint consystency ...
it looks granulated ,
end over all shading of skin - thats not your stronger paRT (to be improved - painting skin is actualy quite easy end enjoyable - as let you to experyment mix colors go nuts - when you get the idea how to make blue / green surface in to skin ^-^ in cauksian hue (yup thats possible - just reqire some knowlege ) - will link a tutorials

my advices :
Dark linking - it will improve work instantly - separating skin from cloaths , puple from blue end from skin end so on
- gem on the top of the staff - it is not painted
- get to know about dry pigments (this will make base cration way easer - as it is way to meld part of base together end by this geting "real" look )

[Maru]

ok found some tutorials
first of all good page for tutorials
http://tutofig.com/

http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2010/ ... ments.html

this 1 is about pigmentsa end bases
(in your cases i would use warm yellow green pigment to get all things work together , or iven mix of green end meyby litle warm sepia color to meld colors of grass witk leafs )

about skin .. whanted to point you to a nice made vid tutorial but then i realize that actualy i disagrea with it end simpliest end again moust efective at your lvl will be a tut from MV
http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2009/ ... -skin.html

(ye im for painting from bright to dark not from dark to bright - thats the case with some special paints properitys .. - other topic )


on other bases look how by ading details / dust / grass ppl "meld" elements in to 1 vision

[sea.man]

I wish I could see some better photos of her face for example. Maru pointed many things and I hope it will make your next model look better.
Did you work more on the model, maybe tried to shade the skin a bit? Now it seems to be a bit too pale IMO

[Muskie]

I think overall your work is a bit flat. When I first started painting years and years ago I tried to paint more realistically, odd for fantasy and sci-fi, but when you're working on a 25mm or 32mm model you almost have to exaggerate. You need higher contrast, a quicker transition from dark to light, even extreme highlights. I also think you may need to thin your paint more.

A wet palette is an option, some folks like Flowaide or whatever GW is calling it. Saliva and plain water work, good enough for Renaissance masters, good enough for me. Black lining is an option too as suggested above. That is a technique that 15 years ago was a staple, but now it all about wonder washes and dips.

This is a model I painted for an online competition. I didn't win and I didn't quite have enough time, but I spent my time on the skin and on the flames. It is a bit of throw back model, but it has really extreme highlights with lots of different hues of green in the skin.

Yes it is an ork, so don't paint your fleshtones like this, but it will work for fabric and it is a good example of putting more effort into part of model and less into other parts.


Ork Nob by Muskie McKay, on Flickr

[k_dash]

I agree with you that I need to use more definite contrast on the models this is a model I painted as a commission for a guy from a nearby gaming club.

Face on this one was done with a lot stronger shading since it is a TT standard for gaming not a display. From close up it looks atrocious but on the picture and in hand it looks quite ok.
I probably have to force myself to do stronger transitions, for model that is to be displayed I do a lot more delicate transitions than on this librarian, I think that it would look odd, painted so strongly and I see people do it with gentle shading and it works for them, thus I am still trying to perfect my technique.
As for diluting my paints I have been using water palette for some time, I use very watered down paints to get the transitions with multi layers, but apparently I need to use stronger colours the ones I use are to similar one to another.

[sea.man]

I can only recommend one thing - contrast on the armor! Brighter highlights for sure.